Yesterday, as the front-edge of Hurricane Sandy started bearing down on New York and newscasters were talking about, "Idiot surfers risking their lives," I was one of those idiots. Sorry. I had a camera to test.
I paddled out at Rockaway Beach, NY with three cameras strapped to the nose of my 76-inch board. It looked stupid. Very stupid. Once out in the water, I got my ass thoroughly handed to me by the ocean for a good solid 90 minutes before I finally nabbed the wave I wanted. The wave you see above.
The waves were in the 5-6 foot range with the occasional 8-9 foot set coming through (and detonating on my head). There was a ton of wind rushing up the wave faces, and it would blind you and push you out the back as you were trying to stroke into one. The wave in the video was probably five or six feet tall, and my arms were jello by the time it came through. I gave it a few extra strokes, popped up, and immediately put all of my weight on my back foot to keep from sinking the nose. I made the drop and managed to stay with the face for a little while before the whitewater consumed me. Really fun.
This footage was shot with the new GoPro Hero 3 Black edition. It was capturing 720p at 120 frames per second. I then used Cinema Tools to slow it down to a standard 24fps, which gives it that very smooth 5x slow-mo effect.