Celebuchef Jean-Georges Vongerichten stoops to slam Vanity Fair over the recent trouncing of his restaurant 66:

"That was political," Vongerichten bristles. Vanity Fair's editor, Graydon Carter, came to the restaurant one night and had to wait for a table. When he sat down, he lit a cigarette. New York's new smoking law had just gone into effect, and the restaurant's employees had to tell Carter to put his smoke out, Vongerichten explains. The Vanity Fair editor and his party got up and left in a huff.

"Then he flew in Gill to write a bad review — that's what the guy is known for," says Vongerichten. London restaurant reviewer A.A. Gill is notorious for hilarious over-the-top sarcasm thinly disguised as food criticism. It was a departure for Vanity Fair, which rarely runs restaurant reviews.

All the Way to the Bank [Houston Press]

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