Ok that article + comments made me realise that I wasn't considering enough features in my tv shopping.
I am just graduating so I only have 500 bucks for a small TV or monitor with TV tuner. I will mainly use it as a computer monitor, then dvds and gaming (xbox) and then TV (Hd when I will be able to afford it).
Any recommandation. I know my budget is lame, but my non-hd tv is broken so that's all I can spend and I am totally lost.
@Charlesincharge: There are plenty of 32-inch and below models that will fit your needs perfectly. Obviously, they won't be top-of-the line sets, and most will be 720p, but they'll look good and work fine.
I'd start at Walmart- they have extremely low prices on entry-level models, some priced at $400 or less.
@Charlesincharge: Like other's have said, you'll be able to find a quality 32" LCD for less than $500.
FWIW, I was in a time crunch a few months back and had only hours to buy a TV, so I didn't have much time to research or be picky. I walked into WalMart, found this 32" RCA 720p as an open box deal for $250. It's not a Kuro, but it's got all the hookups you could need and it's worked without a hitch for me.
thanks for the advices...unfortunatly concerning amazon.com I live in Canada and can't get it here. I'll look for the Lg model mentionned and drive to the closest wal-mart as well !
@matt buchanan: Yeah, there ya go! That's a usage we can even appreciate! By turning into a pun you can co-opt while still acknowledging how trite it is.
@dragon:ONE: I think Vizio is a bit like sharp. They give you a lot for the money, but that lot does not include reliability or affordable repairs.
If you want a throw-away tv. It's fine. I used to say the same thing about Samsung years ago, and Samsung has hugely improved upon their quality levels over the years.
At least Vizio is an actual brand, instead of some cheap manufacturer making tvs under a licensed name like Westinghouse or RCA.
It's a shame DLP is basically kaputt. I bought a 61" Samsung DLP with LED light engine for around $1,500 a year ago. Nothing in LCD or plasma competes at that price and size. Sure, they aren't as sexy-thin and their black levels and viewing angles could be better, but they give an outstanding picture, suck very little power, and made going big affordable.
Samsung doesn't sell any DLP TVs, and Mitsubishi only sells traditional, bulb lit and color wheel sets, and the outrageously expensive LaserVue.
@jimothy: I'm rockin a 52" Mitsubishi DLP. The picutre quality is so good on the DLP it's a shame they died. I still don't understand the obsession with thinness because very few people actually mount their TVs on the wall and even then you still have to have a place for your speakers, receiver, xbox, and everything else so what's the point?
@yantelope: Ding ding ding, we have a winner! I don't NEED a TV that is only an inch thick and I definitely won't pay extra for it. What about a review for the "rest of us"? You know, the people that can actually afford to give up a whopping 12" of space on one wall for a TV if not more? The people that DON'T have space issues and don't mind getting a "fatter" set if it brings the price down? I have a beautiful 57" JVC D-ILA that I picked up for $1800 2+ years ago. Oh, and that included the stand, which I need to hold all my home theater equipment, xbox, center speaker, etc. anyway.
Oh, and I understand that it's becoming the "standard" but I couldn't care less about 1080p as I don't have a BluRay player, which is the only way to really get 1080p content onto that TV. Nobody broadcasts in 1080p and no broadcaster even has it on their radar to broadcast in 1080p. 720p/1080i is just fine for me even if those sets won't exist in a couple more years. Same with the whole 240Hz/120Hz crap.
So, I won't pay extra for...
thin TV's
1080p
240Hz/120Hz
Hmm, apparently this article didn't offer me anything now that look at it?
@yantelope: Most people I know actually don't need space for their speakers, receiver, turntable, PS3, Wii, LaserDisc player, Popcorn Hour, and so on. They need a place for the TV. MAYBE the decoder box for Satellite or Cable, but those are pretty compact today: they're not a standard 17" rack width, and definitely not as deep as a PS3 or Xbox, let alone a good AV receiver. Even DVD players are pretty shallow, even when still 17" wide.
I hear there's a class of people called "married", and one of the symptoms of that condition is that hi-fi gear must be hidden in cabinetry. That leaves just the TV for wall-mounting.
Me, I've got all that crap and more, and so I care most about "can I pick the TV up and move it myself".
@torgreed: hahaha! I'm married and I had cat 5 cables stuck to the ceiling with staples! Alas you are right, women for some reason irrationally insist on things looking "pretty" but I still think if you're going to put your TV on a cabinet a slim DLP will fit there just as well as an LCD.
@LVP: I play lots of video games? Whats your point? That I need a 1" thick, 1080p, 240HZ HDTV to do it on? You have been misled if that's the case. Oh, and btw, I do MOST of my gaming on my computer anyway?
The other thing not mentioned here. Most LCD sets cannot refresh 1080 lines per frame in 120 and 240 hz modes. It tends to be around 900 lines instead.
Power consumption is going to be a major concern if US lawmakers pass the law to mandate reducing HDTV power usage by more than 50% by 2012. That's another nail in Plasma's coffin.
@Groo8: Actually, most of the higher-end Plasmas have lower power footprints. That should trickle down rapidly into lower models in the next 2-3 years.
If you don't want to deal with the complexity of picking an LCD model and you're looking for a good panel without all of the extraneous frills, I highly recommend the Professional line of plasma TVs from Panasonic. These are the TVs that you see hanging vertically in airport terminals around the world displaying flight information. They are designed to show a crisp picture for a long time. That's it.
Speaking of no frills, they typically ship without speakers or inputs. You need to add slot-in terminal boards for connectivity. The advantage of this is it makes you future proof. I have a four year old model and I just recently added an HDMI board to replace my component video one. For more information check out:
Don't listen to the Plasma haters. They still have the blackest blacks, best viewing angle and least amount of motion blur. My four year old TV still looks better than a lot of the latest and greatest LCD models (and it has an Energy Star sticker).
I loved the piece on HDTVs, but I still have a lingering question:
Could you, by chance, produce a list of good HDTVs that cost under, say $700, that deliver a nice picture and just a little more on top. I don't need anything awe-inspiring or terrifying. It's just that my 27" CRT TV is showing its age and I know its days are numbed.
HDTV-speak is a language I have tried and failed to learn. But if you could just do some testing and say "JUST BUY ONE OF THESE," well, then, it would take a load off my mind.
i bought a cheap vizio 32" 1080p earlier this year for ~$430. at the time, all i wanted was an HD flat panel tv - any one will do.
i hunted around and compared specs and whatnot, and settled on the vizio. months later, i'm beginning to have a bit of remorse regarding not going with a higher end TV.
don't get me wrong - it functions as it should, and works fine for what i use it for, mainly gaming. but the color is shitty, something someone who is halfway colorblind like myself shouldn't ever be able to notice.
contrast ratio sucks too. to get true black, i have to make every game look like it's taking place at night, which means... there's a lot of shit that you can't see. turn up the brightness and 'black' is more like 'blackish grey'.
there's also uneven side back lighting on one side. it's not noticeable when the scene is a bright one, but forget about playing splinter cell and really enjoying it.
on top of all that, the adjustments one can make to the picture are wonky, and for some reason the backlight is adjustable in every other preset except for CUSTOM.
its that kind of asshattery that just makes you stare at your tv in disbelief, doubly so because vizio IS AN AMERICAN COMPANY.
i'll forgive a little engrish or screwy translation when i buy something made in the land of the rising sun, but seriously, vizio. look up what the word 'custom' means.
so as a result, ill be selling it off fairly soon for around $350, and i'll shoot for a 42" with a respectable japanese moniker and a contrast ratio that has a comma in it.
@nutbastard: Ahh yes...the woes of the first HD set purchased for gaming...I've been there.
The first time I decided I needed to upgrade to the HD era was actually pretty early...about 5-6 years ago. I found a reasonably priced 36in 720p CRT set made by...ehh...some company beginning with a D...Dyson? Dixie? Dicknible? Well, the name escapes me. Let me just say...that thing was a BEAST. I HATED having to move that thing around...it weighed more than I did at the time (and that was when I was straight out of the Army). Not to mention that the picture was at BEST subpar.
The next set I decided upon was a 27in Samsung LCD, also 720p. That thing currently sits in my bedroom, and even though it's about 3-4 years old, it STILL has one of the best pictures I've seen to date. Love that set.
Then, in my horrible, unquenchable thirst for bigger and better HD, I purchased a 46in DLP from Sears. It was made by either Toshiba or Panasonic, can't recall at the moment. Regardless, I figured a 1k 1080i set would be a great investment for my gaming needs. I read somewhere that DLP's had the best features for gaming, so I thought I'd give it a shot...Don't get me wrong, the picture was OK...but only OK, and for $999 I assumed I'd be getting something along the lines of "good".
Alas, the bulb burned out in that one about 6 months ago. I was left with the decision: Spend $400 on a new bulb for the set, or use that money towards yet ANOTHER new TV.
As I sit here, in front of my 50in, 1080p Samsung plasma, only one thing REALLY comes to mind...go with Samsung. That company really has not let me down yet.
@Wilson Rothman: Yeah, I ran into that last night. Some guy was staring at a $40 12' HDMI cable so I pointed out monoprice to him. I guess someone at Best Buy tried to tell him that using Monster HDMI cable would make his 120hz look like 240...
Man was he ever grateful I wandered by. I used to sell TVs at Best Buy once upon a time before they started the huge designer cable purchasing push. It seemed much more honest then.
@Lite: hates Illinois Nazis: The only reason this would make any sense is the Date transferring trough the HDMI cable, Say you buy a Nice Samsung that supports 120hz, and you get a cheap Dynex HDMI cable well the transfer rate on the cable is less then 8gps, Most manufactures recommend getting a cable that supports 120hz and the transfer rate is greater then 10gps So you can actually see the 120hz. But NO buying at 120hz ready monster cable will not make your t.v look like its running at 240hz.. the Data rate is that matters.
@Lite: hates Illinois Nazis: You know what your right, Im just saying the source makes a difference as well, i have seen plenty of set up with 120hz t.v's with a component cable set up's and it looks great, but also t.v's with HDMI cables with faster strafer speeds and makes them look even better, it guess the television processor the source and the right cables will bring a better picture when the t.v is rending at 120 or 240hz.
@DJJS: 1.3a compliant is 1.3a compliant. Regardless of manufacturer.
However, most HDMI cables don't even say if they're 1.3a compliant or not. Mostly 1.3a exists to support resolutions higher than 1920 x 1080.
And yes, the source matters always. What is a strafer speed? Transfer? Transfer speed doesn't matter if the medium you're using doesn't transmit at it.
I'm just saying that you will likely not notice a difference between a generic and non-generic HDMI cable. While cable choice can help you maximize your experience, they cannot make a TV appear to be something it is not.
I'm always wary of the refresh rates, because one day at Best Buy I was watching a demo on a big, flat panel TV. King Kong was kicking the living shit out of some soon-to-be-dead dinosaurs, and when Mr. Kong would do action moves that normally had a natural motion blur to them that made them look realistic, this TV had such a high refresh rate (I'm assuming it is a refresh rate issue) that his motions looked unnatural and there was zero motion blur. It made the sequence look like a guy in an ape suit filmed on a set.
@Dr Durdon: Go plasma so you don't end up with the High Speed Shutter look of 120 and 240hz refresh rates would be where I'd start.
Staring at the 58" or whatever Samsung 8500 series LCD at 240hz I couldn't tell if I was watching Monday Night Football in HSS or Transformers 2 until Megan Fox showed up.
@Dr Durdon: Almost every set that is 120hz with this anti-judder, smoothing software has the option to disable it. which I would definitely do, unless it's animation or video games. To me, the anti-judder tech makes the traditional 24p of film look like it was shot on video, which we are used to associating with cheapness.
@Dr Durdon: Every set that advertises a rate higher than 60Hz has to do some signal processing to actually display the extra frames. Next time you go to a store to check out models, turn it off to see how well the panel performs with the raw signal.
@Dr Durdon: You can't. Rule of thumb is to check out the set in person and buy the same model online (if you're buying via internets). Most of the time this effect is caused by special modes enabled on the set the draw/replicate frames to fill the gap between the true frames as a way to counteract the innate issues with LCD refresh rates. HDGuru (as well as Giz IIRC) have at least one article/dicussion on this tech.
When in store see if you can manually, or with assistance, disable the motion fature (each manufacturer has a different marketing gimmick-name for it) to see if you're satisfied.
@00000000: I'd prefer to encourage people to buy in the store. Sure you can buy online and maybe save a little, but frankly you're screwing your local economy and eventually companies like Best Buy will be unable to have Brick & Mortar stores for you to see the TV in...
Not to mention the drawbacks of buying online such as you can't return the tv anywhere local if you get it home and hate it. Or if it doesn't work when it arrives you have to pay to ship it somewhere to get it fixed and/or replaced.
@Lite: hates Illinois Nazis: Most definitely. Sorry If I came off as encouraging internet sales. I totally wasn't; if you're picking up a TV s'best to do it in person.
For a bit of insight though; I am an office-working, non-driving, suburban resident. Internet sales on most things are the best option for me. though, when buying a TV (soon) I'm most likely going to have a friend helkp me buy one in person.
@00000000: Right, but many local stores deliver. I paid $140 to have mine delivered (I live on an island) and the old one hauled off.
Mostly it just irritates me when people post the upsides of buying off the internet (Price) without mentioning all of the possible drawbacks because there are far too many people who feel entitled to waste a B&M store's time and money asking an employee questions and then they just go shop somewhere online to get the better price.
B&M stores have inherent higher overhead. But, if you have the capability, you can usually take the item home with you that very day.
@Lite: hates Illinois Nazis: I hear ya and I still agree. though, with smaller items I buy online a ton. Larger expenses are something that I prefer to do in person. Not to mention the instant gratification as well as the piece of mind of knowing that it wasn't manahandled in transit.
Online purchases have limited options when it comes to backup plans.
@Dr Durdon: Don't Buy anything with 120hz or 240hz, this is sometimes called the Soap Opera affect, its good for fast actions scenes but some people don't like the fast refresh rates.
@LVP: Its good for video games but if you want a 000.1-ms respond time u will always want a plasma. No matter how fast the Hz get in a LCD there will always be a delay response time. check this out..
I'm not sure that power consumption is too big a deal between LCDs and plasma displays these days--even a year ago the total cost differential was around thirty dollars per year for the wattage. Manufacturers will probably keep that in check with big states like Cali. considering consumption legislation.
My personal buying guide is as follows: If you want a TV now buy a plasma. If you can wait buy an OLED. LCDs have the worst picture for the money. Who cares how thin they are.
@reddingofish: Yeah, I bought a 46" sony 1080p LCD early this year. Recently I've seen Viera 1080p plasmas, 46" on sale for about $300 less than I paid. Plasmas are on their way out. Definitely a buying opportunity, since they usually have superior picture quality (600 hz refresh, so no judder games, and black levels).
11/19/09
Insignia Plasma Panels = Samsung.
Insignia Blue Ray Player = Samsung.
Just Dynex sucks.. !
11/19/09
11/20/09
11/19/09
I am just graduating so I only have 500 bucks for a small TV or monitor with TV tuner. I will mainly use it as a computer monitor, then dvds and gaming (xbox) and then TV (Hd when I will be able to afford it).
Any recommandation. I know my budget is lame, but my non-hd tv is broken so that's all I can spend and I am totally lost.
Thanks !
11/19/09
I'd start at Walmart- they have extremely low prices on entry-level models, some priced at $400 or less.
11/19/09
Supposedly buying a t.v. from Amazon is pretty good too. I think you get free shipping, and if anything goes wrong they swap it out.
11/19/09
[www.amazon.com]
11/19/09
FWIW, I was in a time crunch a few months back and had only hours to buy a TV, so I didn't have much time to research or be picky. I walked into WalMart, found this 32" RCA 720p as an open box deal for $250. It's not a Kuro, but it's got all the hookups you could need and it's worked without a hitch for me.
[www.walmart.com]
11/24/09
11/19/09
Good job Matt.
11/19/09
Here's a tip: if hosts on CMT are using it, it should have been shelved Looooong ago.
11/19/09
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If you want a throw-away tv. It's fine. I used to say the same thing about Samsung years ago, and Samsung has hugely improved upon their quality levels over the years.
At least Vizio is an actual brand, instead of some cheap manufacturer making tvs under a licensed name like Westinghouse or RCA.
11/19/09
And I'd personally go for a Sammy over one a Viz any day.
11/19/09
11/19/09
Samsung doesn't sell any DLP TVs, and Mitsubishi only sells traditional, bulb lit and color wheel sets, and the outrageously expensive LaserVue.
11/19/09
11/19/09
Oh, and I understand that it's becoming the "standard" but I couldn't care less about 1080p as I don't have a BluRay player, which is the only way to really get 1080p content onto that TV. Nobody broadcasts in 1080p and no broadcaster even has it on their radar to broadcast in 1080p. 720p/1080i is just fine for me even if those sets won't exist in a couple more years. Same with the whole 240Hz/120Hz crap.
So, I won't pay extra for...
thin TV's
1080p
240Hz/120Hz
Hmm, apparently this article didn't offer me anything now that look at it?
11/20/09
I hear there's a class of people called "married", and one of the symptoms of that condition is that hi-fi gear must be hidden in cabinetry. That leaves just the TV for wall-mounting.
Me, I've got all that crap and more, and so I care most about "can I pick the TV up and move it myself".
11/20/09
#tips
11/20/09
11/21/09
11/19/09
11/19/09
11/19/09
11/19/09
Speaking of no frills, they typically ship without speakers or inputs. You need to add slot-in terminal boards for connectivity. The advantage of this is it makes you future proof. I have a four year old model and I just recently added an HDMI board to replace my component video one. For more information check out:
[www.panasonicplasmas.com]
You can get great deals on them at Visual Apex:
[www.visualapex.com]
Don't listen to the Plasma haters. They still have the blackest blacks, best viewing angle and least amount of motion blur. My four year old TV still looks better than a lot of the latest and greatest LCD models (and it has an Energy Star sticker).
11/19/09
11/19/09
I loved the piece on HDTVs, but I still have a lingering question:
Could you, by chance, produce a list of good HDTVs that cost under, say $700, that deliver a nice picture and just a little more on top. I don't need anything awe-inspiring or terrifying. It's just that my 27" CRT TV is showing its age and I know its days are numbed.
HDTV-speak is a language I have tried and failed to learn. But if you could just do some testing and say "JUST BUY ONE OF THESE," well, then, it would take a load off my mind.
Thanks,
Logan
11/19/09
11/19/09
i hunted around and compared specs and whatnot, and settled on the vizio. months later, i'm beginning to have a bit of remorse regarding not going with a higher end TV.
don't get me wrong - it functions as it should, and works fine for what i use it for, mainly gaming. but the color is shitty, something someone who is halfway colorblind like myself shouldn't ever be able to notice.
contrast ratio sucks too. to get true black, i have to make every game look like it's taking place at night, which means... there's a lot of shit that you can't see. turn up the brightness and 'black' is more like 'blackish grey'.
there's also uneven side back lighting on one side. it's not noticeable when the scene is a bright one, but forget about playing splinter cell and really enjoying it.
on top of all that, the adjustments one can make to the picture are wonky, and for some reason the backlight is adjustable in every other preset except for CUSTOM.
its that kind of asshattery that just makes you stare at your tv in disbelief, doubly so because vizio IS AN AMERICAN COMPANY.
i'll forgive a little engrish or screwy translation when i buy something made in the land of the rising sun, but seriously, vizio. look up what the word 'custom' means.
so as a result, ill be selling it off fairly soon for around $350, and i'll shoot for a 42" with a respectable japanese moniker and a contrast ratio that has a comma in it.
11/19/09
The first time I decided I needed to upgrade to the HD era was actually pretty early...about 5-6 years ago. I found a reasonably priced 36in 720p CRT set made by...ehh...some company beginning with a D...Dyson? Dixie? Dicknible? Well, the name escapes me. Let me just say...that thing was a BEAST. I HATED having to move that thing around...it weighed more than I did at the time (and that was when I was straight out of the Army). Not to mention that the picture was at BEST subpar.
The next set I decided upon was a 27in Samsung LCD, also 720p. That thing currently sits in my bedroom, and even though it's about 3-4 years old, it STILL has one of the best pictures I've seen to date. Love that set.
Then, in my horrible, unquenchable thirst for bigger and better HD, I purchased a 46in DLP from Sears. It was made by either Toshiba or Panasonic, can't recall at the moment. Regardless, I figured a 1k 1080i set would be a great investment for my gaming needs. I read somewhere that DLP's had the best features for gaming, so I thought I'd give it a shot...Don't get me wrong, the picture was OK...but only OK, and for $999 I assumed I'd be getting something along the lines of "good".
Alas, the bulb burned out in that one about 6 months ago. I was left with the decision: Spend $400 on a new bulb for the set, or use that money towards yet ANOTHER new TV.
As I sit here, in front of my 50in, 1080p Samsung plasma, only one thing REALLY comes to mind...go with Samsung. That company really has not let me down yet.
11/20/09
11/19/09
11/19/09
11/19/09
Man was he ever grateful I wandered by. I used to sell TVs at Best Buy once upon a time before they started the huge designer cable purchasing push. It seemed much more honest then.
11/19/09
11/19/09
11/20/09
11/20/09
However, most HDMI cables don't even say if they're 1.3a compliant or not. Mostly 1.3a exists to support resolutions higher than 1920 x 1080.
And yes, the source matters always. What is a strafer speed? Transfer? Transfer speed doesn't matter if the medium you're using doesn't transmit at it.
I'm just saying that you will likely not notice a difference between a generic and non-generic HDMI cable. While cable choice can help you maximize your experience, they cannot make a TV appear to be something it is not.
11/19/09
How can I avoid this when buying online?
11/19/09
Staring at the 58" or whatever Samsung 8500 series LCD at 240hz I couldn't tell if I was watching Monday Night Football in HSS or Transformers 2 until Megan Fox showed up.
11/19/09
11/19/09
11/19/09
11/19/09
When in store see if you can manually, or with assistance, disable the motion fature (each manufacturer has a different marketing gimmick-name for it) to see if you're satisfied.
11/19/09
Not to mention the drawbacks of buying online such as you can't return the tv anywhere local if you get it home and hate it. Or if it doesn't work when it arrives you have to pay to ship it somewhere to get it fixed and/or replaced.
11/19/09
For a bit of insight though; I am an office-working, non-driving, suburban resident. Internet sales on most things are the best option for me. though, when buying a TV (soon) I'm most likely going to have a friend helkp me buy one in person.
#tips
11/19/09
Mostly it just irritates me when people post the upsides of buying off the internet (Price) without mentioning all of the possible drawbacks because there are far too many people who feel entitled to waste a B&M store's time and money asking an employee questions and then they just go shop somewhere online to get the better price.
B&M stores have inherent higher overhead. But, if you have the capability, you can usually take the item home with you that very day.
11/19/09
Online purchases have limited options when it comes to backup plans.
#tips
11/19/09
11/20/09
11/21/09
#tip s[en.wikipedia.org]
11/19/09
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11/19/09