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Chris Jacob
One other caveat: Your claim "you can forward to as many phones as you want" is not correct, at least for me.
I had 6 phones on my list -- not all checked at that point -- and clicked "Add another phone". The response was, "Your account already has the maximum number of forwarding phones."
I had to remove one of the 6 before I was allowed to add one.
Wow, Rockwell? I thought you were better than that, Giz. He's like the absolute bad joke of the photography world.
Anyway, if you're a film user like me your camera will eventually need to be CLA'ed (Cleaned, Lubricated and Adjusted) There a lot of great reliable services out there. Check the "I Love FIlm" group on Flickr or check around on Photo.net
Microfiber cloths are awesome and if you need to find some cheap, check Wal*Mart or Target and go to the Automotive section. You can get a package of 5 for the price of just 1 found in the cleaning supplies isle.
I also cleaned my Wii Controllers and the balance board (which accumulated some nasty foot funk) with a store brand equivalent of a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.
It bugs me when I hear people refer to all alcohols as "booze", as in this article. Isopropyl alcohol is NOT booze. Do not use anything like vodka or whisky or gin or anything you might drink, as there are a host of other things in them (plant extracts, esters, grain "varnishes", etc.) that become sticky, stinky and nasty once the ethyl alcohol has evaporated away. Also, for your own safety, do not treat isopropyl alcohol as booze. It is NOT safe to consume.
I recommend denatured alcohol, when alcohol is used on electronics. It seems to evaporate more cleanly than rubbing alcohols like isopropyl. I keep a box of alcohol prep pads by my work keyboard to keep keyboard plaque at bay every couple weeks, but I have moist hands that generate plaque very easily. They leave a cloudy residue, but the plaque is gone.
For dirty computer cases, a few people have recommended either vacuuming them out with a crevice tool, or having the vacuum cleaner handy. (Someone said that fan filters for the PC case fans are a plus, especially if you have pets or carpets in the same room, and I cannot agree more. Make them part of your build list when putting a new PC together.) I suggest that the vacuum is a necessity... if you don't have one, borrow one from a neighbor before you start. The electrostatic charges in PC cases attract such very fine dust and dander (from our pets) that these can cause real irritation problems for your sinuses and airway. In some parts of the country, roaches and mice may be common, regardless of how clean you keep your house. If you have a PC in or near the kitchen, putting on a filter mask before vacuuming is an especially good idea. Then, use the canned air and dust the area afterwards, right away, before you move around too much.
Don't buy one can of duster. Buy the 3-pack, or a couple 3-packs. Why?, because the dusters will get cold after 6-12 quick blasts, and the amount of propellant left will not offer the same pressure as when it was warm. When one can gets cold, pick up another one, and rotate through your cans, letting them warm up before picking them up again.
Finally, canned air (duster) is great for small devices/areas, or when just a few quick blasts are needed, but none of it is good for you to breathe or the environment to receive (even if you get the ozone-friendly stuff). They also seem to be popular for stupid kids to huff these days. If you're serious about regularly dusting your electronics, get a small shop air compressor (yeah, they're kinda noisy and a bit spendy) -- it'll blast nothing but air and will give you consistent pressure.
When you're cleaning a desktop use a vacuum cleaner in addition to that can of compressed air. With the air all you're doing is disturbing the dust meaning it'll just resettle somewhere else, either inside or outside the case. Not the ideal solution.
When you're cleaning just have the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner behind whereever you're spraying so when that dirt is dislodged it funnels into the cleaner. Even if you don't have a can of air a vacuum cleaner will work great at picking up lots of surface dust and clumps and can be especially good on heatsinks.
I'd also reccommend a large paintbrush with soft fibers for getting dust out of cracks and crevices. Again heatsinks are the main offender here and they're also the places you want to make sure are dust free.
I was able to clean some really pesky specks off my D50's sensor with HEET (the gas-line antifreeze... the isopropyl, not the methanol). Everything else I tried either left small amounts of residue or didn't budge whatever was on my sensor
The technique I use on a desktop that's packed to the brim with dust is to just get a vacuum and alternate between blowing air and sucking it back in. It keeps the dust from settling in places like my lungs.
@spannu: I've heard this is potentially dangerous as the high airflow can build up a nice static charge on the usually non-conductive hose - until it contacts something on the motherboard and zap! Or rather: zap$$$
@ThatsNotPudding: Don't worry; me and the vacuum both make sure to wear one of these.
Seriously though, this may just be coincidence, but I only use a vacuum with metal attachments and lining in the hose, so I've never had to really worry. I also do not stick it anywhere inside the case as there's more than enough airflow from over a foot away.
I have some disposable biodegradable lens wipes I use on my glasses. They're still damp when I'm done so I usually give my mobile a quick once over at the same time and any other gadgets that are around until the wipe's used up. Helps keep things pretty decently clean.
I keep my MBP fairly pristine with my iKlear cloth (though I do have the black cleaning cloth it came with), and I occasionally use the spray. +1 to the folks talking about the Mr. Clean product. Those white macbooks were such a pain to clean. The unibody model seems to do away with some of the worst-to-clean surfaces altogether. The powermac gets shots from the compressed air to get crap out of its innards, which I do every couple of weeks.
@Kaiser-Machead: I love the mr. Clean eraser, but they should be warned that it does buff off micrometers of the top of the surface which is why it works so well. If you use it on something shiny, it takes the finish right off.
If you spill soda/coffee/etc into the keyboard of a desktop, take it apart and clean it with hot soapy water. Do no try to use alcohol, it won't dissolve the sugar - once it dries, it will still be sticky.
Whatever they use at the Apple Store on my macbook screen is certainly better than the damp cloth I've been using. My screen is never cleaner than when I drop it off for some unnecessary service.
@VenomIreland: Argh. Blame my reading. I never saw the word touchpad when I skimmed through it - and I did a Find in the page for trackpad, not touchpad.
12/13/09
I had 6 phones on my list -- not all checked at that point -- and clicked "Add another phone". The response was, "Your account already has the maximum number of forwarding phones."
I had to remove one of the 6 before I was allowed to add one.
12/12/09
one of the big problems i have encountered with the cell phone app (blackberry):
You don't automatically receive text messages. You have to constantly refresh (unless i missed something).
12/12/09
12/07/09
12/07/09
Anyway, if you're a film user like me your camera will eventually need to be CLA'ed (Cleaned, Lubricated and Adjusted) There a lot of great reliable services out there. Check the "I Love FIlm" group on Flickr or check around on Photo.net
Microfiber cloths are awesome and if you need to find some cheap, check Wal*Mart or Target and go to the Automotive section. You can get a package of 5 for the price of just 1 found in the cleaning supplies isle.
I also cleaned my Wii Controllers and the balance board (which accumulated some nasty foot funk) with a store brand equivalent of a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.
12/06/09
It bugs me when I hear people refer to all alcohols as "booze", as in this article. Isopropyl alcohol is NOT booze. Do not use anything like vodka or whisky or gin or anything you might drink, as there are a host of other things in them (plant extracts, esters, grain "varnishes", etc.) that become sticky, stinky and nasty once the ethyl alcohol has evaporated away. Also, for your own safety, do not treat isopropyl alcohol as booze. It is NOT safe to consume.
I recommend denatured alcohol, when alcohol is used on electronics. It seems to evaporate more cleanly than rubbing alcohols like isopropyl. I keep a box of alcohol prep pads by my work keyboard to keep keyboard plaque at bay every couple weeks, but I have moist hands that generate plaque very easily. They leave a cloudy residue, but the plaque is gone.
For dirty computer cases, a few people have recommended either vacuuming them out with a crevice tool, or having the vacuum cleaner handy. (Someone said that fan filters for the PC case fans are a plus, especially if you have pets or carpets in the same room, and I cannot agree more. Make them part of your build list when putting a new PC together.) I suggest that the vacuum is a necessity... if you don't have one, borrow one from a neighbor before you start. The electrostatic charges in PC cases attract such very fine dust and dander (from our pets) that these can cause real irritation problems for your sinuses and airway. In some parts of the country, roaches and mice may be common, regardless of how clean you keep your house. If you have a PC in or near the kitchen, putting on a filter mask before vacuuming is an especially good idea. Then, use the canned air and dust the area afterwards, right away, before you move around too much.
Don't buy one can of duster. Buy the 3-pack, or a couple 3-packs. Why?, because the dusters will get cold after 6-12 quick blasts, and the amount of propellant left will not offer the same pressure as when it was warm. When one can gets cold, pick up another one, and rotate through your cans, letting them warm up before picking them up again.
Finally, canned air (duster) is great for small devices/areas, or when just a few quick blasts are needed, but none of it is good for you to breathe or the environment to receive (even if you get the ozone-friendly stuff). They also seem to be popular for stupid kids to huff these days. If you're serious about regularly dusting your electronics, get a small shop air compressor (yeah, they're kinda noisy and a bit spendy) -- it'll blast nothing but air and will give you consistent pressure.
12/06/09
When you're cleaning just have the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner behind whereever you're spraying so when that dirt is dislodged it funnels into the cleaner. Even if you don't have a can of air a vacuum cleaner will work great at picking up lots of surface dust and clumps and can be especially good on heatsinks.
I'd also reccommend a large paintbrush with soft fibers for getting dust out of cracks and crevices. Again heatsinks are the main offender here and they're also the places you want to make sure are dust free.
12/06/09
12/06/09
12/05/09
12/05/09
[shop.lego.com]
12/05/09
12/05/09
12/05/09
12/05/09
12/05/09
12/05/09
Seriously though, this may just be coincidence, but I only use a vacuum with metal attachments and lining in the hose, so I've never had to really worry. I also do not stick it anywhere inside the case as there's more than enough airflow from over a foot away.
12/05/09
12/05/09
12/05/09
12/05/09
12/05/09
Whatever they use at the Apple Store on my macbook screen is certainly better than the damp cloth I've been using. My screen is never cleaner than when I drop it off for some unnecessary service.
12/05/09
12/05/09
12/05/09
What?
12/05/09
Curses my vision!