I say that because HTPCs have never been smaller, cheaper or more powerful. A little over two years ago, we were talking about how purchasing an HD-capable PC would leave you with an empty bank account. Take this Sony Vaio TP1 for example. The wheel of cheese design was considered compact and "living room friendly" at the time, but it is still probably twice as big as current nettop models. The specs are lacking even by 2007 standards and it started at $1600. Today I can easily go out and find a more powerful, feature rich nettop for less than $400. And it would be small enough to tuck behind your HDTV due, in part, to cheap, compact, graphics-friendly chipsets like Nvidia Ion.

Today's Most Affordable HTPCs

Seriously...HTPCs for less than $400. Sure, you could spend a lot of cash on something more elaborate, and will have to if you want to access your own digital cable stream, or if you want to go with Blu-ray as your high-def source of choice, but if you simply want a compact 1080p device that competently opens up the entire internet to your HDTV, here is a good place to start:

• Dell Zino HD: The cheapest of the bunch at a base price of $230, the Dell Zino HD offers a range of AMD Athlon processor options, up to a 1TB HDD, up to 8GB of RAM and a choice between integrated graphics and an ATI Radeon HD 4330 512MB card. Plus you get HDMI, four USB ports, and two eSATA for easy expansion. Even with a few bells and whistles like a dual-core processor, a bump in RAM to 4GB or a boost in the HDD capacity, you can keep the Zino under $400. Adding a Blu-ray drive bumps the price up an additional $100. [Dell]

• Acer AspireRevo R6310: Features include a dual-core 1.6GHz Atom 330 processor, Nvidia Ion graphics, 2GB RAM, 160GB HDD, HDMI, eSATA, VGA, 6 USB ports, card reader and wireless-N in a $330 package. They even throw in a wireless keyboard and mouse for good measure. I have spent some time with the AspireRevo, and I can say that it is a very capable HTPC for the money. Power web surfing can be sluggish at times, as is Flash playback—but Adobe has promised support for NVIDIA graphics acceleration in Flash 10.1 that should remedy that situation. All-in-all though, it handles video quite well. It does not include optical drive option, meaning you will have to purchase a Blu-ray player seperately. [Acer]

• Asus EeeBox EB1012: A release date and price have not officially been confirmed, but the EeeBox EB1012 offers basically the exact same feature set as the AspireRevo—minus a USB port or two. Hopefully, when it is released, the price point will be even more aggressive than Acer's. It does not include optical drive option, meaning you will have to purchase a Blu-ray player separately. [Asus]

As a side note, if you are interested in using a CableCard tuner to turn your PC into a cable DVR, that has become a lot easier for the average Joe. However, programs like Comcast's upcoming Xfinity (formerly known as TV Everywhere) might easily bridge this gap by putting your current cable subscription online. Check out my article on living without cable or satellite to learn more about what programming and software is available to you online.

Remotes

None of the HTPCs mentioned above come with a remote control out of the box, but this can be easily and cheaply remedied. Most infrared remotes require only that you have a free USB port for the included adapter, so just about any PC with Windows Media Center can be converted to work with a remote.

If you are just looking for something basic, a remote like the MCE PC will do the job just fine—and it costs under $20. If you have an iPhone, you can also download apps like AirMouse (iTunes link) and MediaMote (iTunes link) to handle these tasks. Gmote is also available for those of you with Android phones.

Networking

Keep in mind that if your modem is far from your computer, and you'll be relying on Wi-Fi to connect to the internet and move files between computers, you are probably going to want something capable of handling wireless-N (802.11n). Fortunately, all of the PCs mentioned above can do that right out of the box—although the Dell Zino requires a $45 upgrade for that option.

If you want to upgrade an older PC to handle wireless-N, all you need is a compatible router and a USB adapter. Decent wireless-N routers will run you about $60 on the lower end, and compatible USB adapters can be had for an additional $30 or $40 bucks. If you just plan on connecting to the internet and you live in a smaller home or apartment, you should be fine with 802.11g.

Networked Storage

Although not an essential component to owning an HTPC, at some point you are probably going to want a networked storage solution so you can dump all of your files in one place. Traditionally, setting up a home server to centrally store files from multiple computers (and multiple platforms, potentially) required another major investment, but things have definitely improved in this area. For example, HP's LX195 Windows Home Server with a 640GB drive can be had for $250, and it performs quite well for the price. The same can be said for the Iomega Ix2-200 NAS. It runs on Iomega's proprietary software as opposed to Windows Home Server, but for the money, it has a killer feature set that makes it a pretty awesome deal. Capacity runs up to 4TB, but the base delivers 1TB at $270 and it is user-expandable.

Even if you want to bake your own NAS server there is open-source software like FreeNAS that can help to keep the costs down. Maximum PC has provided a great guide to building a NAS server using these free open source tools. If you have the hardware lying around, it's not going to cost a penny. Either way, building from scratch can be fairly inexpensive depending on how much storage space you need.

Avoid Expensive Set-Top Boxes

Amusingly enough, as I was writing this article, my father called to ask me about the Roku player his IT guy was raving about. Yes, Roku's three models are priced between $80 and $130, a figure even the cheapest HTPCs can't match, but the fact that they are still limited to Netflix and Amazon On Demand makes them less valuable. Would you say that Netflix and Amazon VOD are worth $130 of the AspireRevo's $330 price tag? I should hope not.

There are certainly good reasons to pick up a $100 HD media streamer, like the Asus O!Play, if you're aware of the limitations, but what's the excuse for Apple TV and others like it? Apple's set-top box costs $229. I have iTunes on my HTPC...so where is the value? Throw an HDMI port on a Mac Mini and then we'll talk. The $300 Popcorn Hour player may play a ton of file formats and have an integrated BitTorrent client, but you have to pay extra to add a hard drive, and by the time you do, you're squarely in HTPC territory.

To me, spending a little more actually saves money, because I don't need to buy so many competing boxes. It's like going to the grocery store and choosing between the regular-sized bag of coffee and the jumbo bag of coffee. The smaller bag costs lest money, but buying in bulk is cheaper pound for pound—and you know I will be drinking all of that coffee.

HTPCs Are Resilient

Forget about netbooks and elaborate set-top media boxes this holiday season. If your budget is anywhere over $300, go with an HTPC. Set-top boxes will always hold you to whatever content deals their makers can set in place (or whatever you can go through the trouble of hacking or modding in, yourself). And I'm not interested in netbooks until they handle HD well enough to be used as a portable HTPC.

It's only a matter of time before everyone watches TV through the internet, so you had better get on the bandwagon while cable companies are still scrambling to figure out how best to screw you. No matter how weird it gets, at least with a PC you know you'll be able to roll with it.

In other words, many of these "deals" really aren't deals at all. Often, Black Friday sale products are priced differently between stores, or they are priced at or above deals you can find elsewhere any day of the week. You might see a particularly juicy deal in a flyer on a big ticket item like an HDTV, only to discover that the store only had a few units to sell. The bottom line is that you need to do your homework, and this is a good place to start.

After digging through a mind-numbing quantity of deals, I came away with a few impressions about how some major retailers do business. Simply put, they are taking advantage of the herd mentality. Losses taken on truly great deals (which are often in limited quantities), are made up by selling high volume products or crap products at or above their normal retail value.

The companies examined here have different angles on Black Friday, though. Amazon always has volatile pricing, so some of its Black Friday prices are already above the current going rates. Besides that, because it shows you its own prices and prices of its third-party vendors during searches, sometimes its own prices look high. Walmart has great prices, but you have to watch out for crappy products. And Sears and Best Buy, well, they just have bad deals—many of the hottest items on their list are available cheaper right now at other retailers.

The way I see it, your odds of scoring a big-time deal at a brick-and-mortar store are slim, and catching the best deal online is often based entirely on timing, maybe even watching the price of a product over an extended period of time. So this year I plan on skipping the crowds (and a potential trampling) on Black Friday in favor of shopping through some online comparison engines, setting up price alerts and doing some price trending analysis to give myself the best chance of scoring real deals.

The following lists feature some of worst deals on hardware offered up by four major retailers. At the bottom is a supplemental list of products you should avoid at all costs.

Best Buy

While Best Buy's offerings during Black Friday are decent, there are an alarming number of instances where they are getting beat on the price—sometimes badly.

• Cellphones: Motorola Droid priced at $199.99 w/contract, available at Dell Mobility for $120.
• Cellphones: Motorola H710 Noise-Canceling Bluetooth Headset priced at $39.99, currently available from Wireless Emporium (via Amazon) for about the same price with shipping.
• Electronics: Bose in-ear headphones priced at $89.99, found on Amazon for $89.95 right now with free shipping.
• Home Theater: Monster HDMI Cable priced at $49.95, see our piece on the Truth About Monster Cable
• Home Theater: Sony 7.1 Channel 770-Watt A/V Receiver priced at $279.99, currently available on Amazon for $262.91
• Home Theater: Samsung Home Theater System priced at $399.99, currently available at Best Buy and Amazon for the same price.
• Televisions: Sony 46" 1080p 60Hz LCD HDTV priced at $852.99, but on Black Friday, Walmart will sell it for $798
• Televisions: Sony 40" 1080p 60Hz LCD HDTV priced at $662.99; Walmart's Black Friday price is $598
• Televisions: Samsung 42" 720p Plasma HDTV priced at $547.99, only $2 cheaper than current Amazon price with free shipping
• Televisions: Samsung 40" 1080p 60Hz LCD HDTV priced at $597.99, only $2 cheaper than current Dell price with free shipping
• Televisions: Samsung 32" 720p LCD HDTV priced at $397.99, only $2 cheaper than current Amazon price with free shipping
• Portable Storage: Sandisk Cruzer 8GB priced at $19.99, available at Office Depot and Office Max for $14.99
• Blu-ray: Samsung BD-P4600 Blu-ray Disc Player priced at $279.99, available online for $278.75 with free shipping
• Blu-ray: Samsung BD-P1600 Blu-ray Disc Player priced at $149.99, currently available from Amazon for the same price with free shipping
• Digital Media Cards: Sandisk 4GB Memory Stick Pro Duo priced at $14.99, on Black Friday available from Staples for $12.99
• Digital Media Cards: Sandisk 8GB SD Card priced at $19.99, on Black Friday available from several retailers for $14.99
• Digital Cameras: Nikon Coolpix P90 priced at $299.99, currently available at Adorama (via Amazon) for the same price with free shipping

Walmart

Not surprisingly, Walmart is pretty good about setting the lowest prices. They don't always have the most eye popping offerings, but their deals are solid. Out of their Black Friday electronics lineup, I only found a few questionable (and relatively minor) issues.

• Blu-ray: The hot $78 Magnavox NB500 Blu-ray Disc Player deal is well priced, but keep in mind that this is the same player they have discounted during the holidays for the last couple of years. It's great for entry-level users, but don't expect streaming Netflix or Amazon on demand, or any of the other features found in sub-$200 Blu-ray players.
• Digital Media Cards: Sony 4GB Memory Stick Pro Duo priced at $20, available from ABX ProTech (via Amazon) for $13.63 with shipping
• Electronics: Philips 6-foot HDMI cable priced at $19. While that's still a lot cheaper than Monster cable, it's overpriced. You can get cable just as good at Monoprice.com or Amazon for under $4.

Sears

Sears has something of a reputation for bad Black Friday deals, and this year appears to be more of the same. Looking through their offerings, I noticed a significant number of electronics being sold at or above prices that you can find at other retailers on any given week.

• Digital Cameras: Sony DCR-SR47 60GB Hard Disk Drive Camcorder priced at $299.99, on Black Friday available at Best Buy for $249.99
• Televisions: Sony 52" LCD HDTV (Model KDL52V5100) priced at $1599.99, available for less than $1400 from several online retailers with free shipping
• Televisions: Sony 46" LCD HDTV (Model KDL46V5100) priced at $1239.99, available for less than $1000 from several online retailers with free shipping
•Televisions: Sony 40" 1080p 60Hz LCD HDTV priced at $664.99, on Black Friday available at Walmart for $598
• Televisions: Samsung 55" LED HDTV (Model UN55B6000) priced at $2469.99, currently available at or below that price from several online retailers with free shipping
• Televisions: Samsung 50" Plasma HDTV (Model PN50B530) priced at $899.99, currently available from Crutchfield for the same price with free shipping
• Televisions: Samsung 46" LED HDTV (Model UN46B6000) priced at $1599.99, currently available via ecomelectronics for $1574.95 with free shipping
• Televisions: Samsung 46" 1080P Class LCD HDTV (Model LN46B500) priced at $899.99, on Black Friday available for $848 at Walmart and Best Buy
• MP3 Players: GPX 4GB MP3/4 Player priced at $32.99, available from Kmart for $24.99
• Home Theater: Sony Bravia 5.1 Channel 1000 Watt Integrated Home Theater System DAV-HDX589 priced at $329.99, available at Best Buy for $279.99
• Home Theater: Panasonic Blu-Ray Home Theater System (Model SC-BT200) priced at $399.99, currently available at 6ave (via Amazon) for $376.84 with free shipping
• GPS: Magellan RoadMate 1220 GPS priced at $89.99, on Black Friday available at Kmart for $84.99
• Blu-ray: Sony BDP-S360 Blu-ray Disc Player priced at $149.99, on Black Friday available via Target with a $20 gift card and currently priced at Amazon for $133.89 with shipping
• Blu-ray: Samsung BD-P1600 Blu-ray Disc Player priced at $149.99, currently available from Amazon for the same price with free shipping
• Digital Media Cards: Sony 2GB Memory Stick PRO Duo priced at $12.99, currently $12.82 on Amazon with shipping

Amazon

While I expected Amazon's prices to fluctuate from one minute to the next, I did not expect some of their current prices to be far below the price they planned to offer as part of their Black Friday deal. It's almost like they are using Black Friday fever as an opportunity to jack up the profits on certain items. Both price points are competitive, but it appears that scoring the best deal is more about price trending over an extended period of time than it is about Black Friday. Amazon also has a funny situation with its third-party retailers. You can see in the list below that many partners are already underselling Amazon's Black Friday prices. It's a good issue to have if you're in the market for particular items—provided you trust the third-party retailer.

• Computers: ASUS Eee PC 1005HA-PU1X-BK 10.1-Inch Black Netbook priced at $349.99, amazingly it is currently available on Amazon for $339.99—so the promoted Black Friday price is $10 higher.
• Computers: Samsung N120-12GW 10.1-Inch White Netbook priced at $363.32, again, Amazon is selling it cheaper right now—only $319
• Computers: Toshiba Satellite T135-S1307 TruBrite 13.3-Inch Ultrathin Black Laptop priced at $699.99, selling on Amazon right now for $599.99
• Electronics: Archos 5 250 GB Internet Media Tablet priced at $259.95, currently selling on Amazon for $229.99
• GPS: DeLorme Earthmate PN-30 Green Handheld GPS priced at $224.37, currently selling on Amazon for $179.99
• GPS: DeLorme Earthmate PN-30 Realtree Handheld GPS priced at $236, currently selling on Amazon for $179.99
• GPS Garmin Nüvi 780 4.3-Inch Widescreen Bluetooth Portable GPS Navigator with MSN Direct Service priced at $179.99, important to note that MSN Direct is shutting down in 2011
• GPS: Magellan RoadMate 1220 3.5-Inch Portable GPS Navigator priced at $96.94, currently available on Amazon for $89.99
• GPS: Magellan RoadMate 1440 4.3-Inch Portable GPS Navigator priced at $149, currently available on Amazon $138.91 with shipping
• GPS: Magellan RoadMate 1470 4.7-Inch Widescreen Portable GPS Navigator priced at $149, currently available from Electronics Expo (via Amazon) for $139.39 with shipping
• Home Theater: Denon S-32 Internet Radio with Built-in Speakers and 2-Alarm Clock priced at $319, currently available from One Call (via Amazon) for $299
• Television: LG 37LH55 37-Inch 1080p 240Hz LCD HDTV priced at $866.97, currently available from Adorama (via Amazon) for $849.99
• Television: Panasonic VIERA G10 Series TC-P42G10 42-Inch 1080p Plasma HDTV priced at $909.69, currently available on Amazon for $897.87 with shipping Update: price jumped overnight to $916.42

The Worst Gadgets of The Year

There are bad deals, and then there are bad products. Except where otherwise noted, the gadgets in the lists above are more or less worth it if you can find the best prices. The stuff below appear under the Worstmodo tag; it's the stuff we don't want to see any of you people buying. We've mentioned a bunch more Don't Buy products our continuing gift guide series, but here are the most egregious offenders of the year.

TwitterPeek: If you are going to make a gadget that only handles Twitter, it had damn sure better provide an experience that outstrips what I could do with just about any ordinary cellphone. By most accounts, the TwitterPeek fails in this regard. If you spend $99 for 6-months or $200 for a lifetime of service on this, you have lost your mind.

Garmin Nuvifone G60 GPS Phone: As our review clearly states, the Garmin Nuvifone G60 should be taken out back and put out of its misery. Besides functioning poorly, it charges you for what other devices can do better, and for free.

Sony PRS-600 Touch Edition Reader: Sony has long been a proponent of the e-ink ebook, but they keep messing it up by overlaying it with a resistive touchscreen. The trouble is glare—even in the gentle light of a reading lamp, you can see your reflection as you try to make out the page. Some reviewers don't mind this for some reason, but we do, and besides, with so many ebook options out there, why settle for a compromised machine? (We haven't reviewed the upcoming Sony PRS-900 Daily Edition, but we have been told that the touchscreen is constructed the same. This is bad news for Sony. Steer clear!)

Windows Mobile 6.5: With the bar being set by the iPhone and Android, and the Palm Pre doing a nice job of keeping up, Microsoft needed to get their act together with Windows Mobile if they really wanted to compete. The 6.5 update doesn't bring anything new to the table outside of some UI tweaks. As we noted in our review, it's a major letdown...and then some.

Panasonic SDR-SW21 Waterproof Camera: Despite a $400 price tag, the SDR-SW21 takes 640x480 SD video and 0.3MP stills, putting it the same league as some of the crappiest cameraphones. It's also billed as being waterproof and rugged, but can only be used at depths above 6-feet. A complete piece of garbage, pure and simple.

CatGenie Litter Box: A litter box that does all the cleaning for you sounds like a cat lover's dream come true—that is until you realize that the CatGenie creates as many problems as it solves. It cleans up well, but it's also an enormous, power sucking money pit. Check out our review for the full details.

Cell-Mate Hands Free Cellphone Holder: How could wearing a Bluetooth headset in public make you look like a bigger idiot? Answer: when the Bluetooth is coming from the phone strapped to your head. The product page doesn't explain where you can actually buy one of these cellphone-holding headsets, but if you come across the Cell-Mate in the wild, just keep on walking.

[Image via Flickr]

Software

Once you have looked over everything Windows 7 has to offer and decided (correctly) that the upgrade is worth getting, the first thing you have to do is figure out which version is right for you. The Real Cost of Upgrading to WIndows 7 will help you answer that question along with tips on how to cheaply upgrade your hardware if necessary. You also have the option of purchasing OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) copies at a significant discount if you are willing to sacrifice transferable PC keys and support. NewEgg is a great place to score OEM disks.

If you are a college student there is even better news—you can still get real deal Windows 7 on a Ramen budget with the deal Microsoft is throwing your way. If you are a student at an American university or you have a working university email, you can get Windows 7 Home Premium or Pro for only $30. Even if you don't currently attend college, many of you might still have a valid email. Make sure and check before you go and waste money on a full price copy.

Hardware

If you have decided to get your copy of Windows 7 along with some brand new hardware, launch day is a great time to hunt for deals on laptops and desktops. Here are a few great deals already coming down the pipeline:

• Best Buy will offer a HP Slimline laptop, HP mini netbook, 18.5" LCD monitor and Netgear Wireless-G router package with Windows 7 (includes Geek Squad setup) for $1200. This is one hell of a deal—pre-orders are already being taken on Best Buy's website.

• Customers who buy a new PC running Windows 7 Home Premium can upgrade a Windows XP or Windows Vista-based PC they already own with a discounted box copy of Windows 7. This offer will run through Jan. 2, 2010.

• Dell is offering $100 off on a Dell Studio XPS13

• The Acer AZ5610-U9072 23" Touch All-in-One will be priced at $880

• Techdealdigger has some great deals on laptops including a 17.3-inch HP with Core 2 Duo processor, 4GB RAM, 320GB HDD and Windows 7 Premium for $550, and a 16-inch HP with Core i7 processor, 3GB RAM, 320GB HDD and 64-bit Windows 7 Home Premium for $800.

• Check out the Windows home page tomorrow. Word on the street is that they will be showcasing several deals from retailers.

Chances are there will be deals going on everywhere you look, so make sure to shop around before you buy. If you are patient enough, the potential for a glut of Windows 7 PC inventory could translate into even better holiday deals.

As illustrated in a few of our surveys, many of you have already made the jump, catching fresh TV via broadband instead of actual channels or even DVR. But the vast majority of us are still watching TV the old fashioned way—paying for packages from cable or satellite providers. But from what I've seen in my own house lately, I suspect that it won't be long before this practice is as archaic as owning a landline. Many of you refuse to pay for a phone twice, so why are you paying for two or three different ways to see your favorite TV shows?

There are, of course, drawbacks to a life without a broadcaster-friendly set-top box, so I spent a month trying to find out whether or not these drawbacks were significant enough to justify the huge additional cost.

The Experiment

Since this is Prof. Dealzmodo, you already know the impetus for this experiment was money. In particular my 12-month introductory package runs out soon, and the same channels will soon cost me nearly $80 per month. But why? The channel lineups are bloated and padded with filler—a veritable hot dog of entertainment where the real meat is mixed in with a lot of hooves and snouts. I mean, 70 music channels? Really? Isn't that what services like Pandora—and about 100 others—are for? Speaking of services, I decided to play it straight. I didn't get shows via BitTorrent. For a month, I simply used easily accessible, generally legal alternatives like Netflix, Hulu Desktop and network websites, plus Windows Media Center, which comes "free" with most PCs these days. The idea here is to prove that you don't need to spend tons of money, use complicated software or go to extreme measures to watch what you want.

Hardware

First let's talk about hardware. I don't see the point in spending money on niche players like Apple TV , Vudu, and Roku to get internet content onto your television. These players only handle a fraction of what any home theater PC can deliver. Also, sticking with a computer makes it easier to roll with new services and software platforms as they're released. (Hulu isn't on any set-top box yet, but it's available to every Mac and PC, in several ways.)

You don't need something elaborate here—an HTPC's main purpose is to browse the web and stream video. Just about any computer will do—including the old laptop you're thinking about replacing anyway. Back in the day, I used to attach my laptop to the TV with a simple S-video connection, but a lot of today's laptops and home-theater PCs make things extremely easy with an HDMI port.

If you don't have an HDMI port, there are simple workarounds. For older computers in general, there are DVI-to-HDMI (video only) and VGA-to-component cables are also doable for older PCs, and if you already have some video cables, there are adapters out there that might do the trick for less money. Owners of new Macs have to fudge a bit with Mini DisplayPort-to-HDMI converters, but even those, from Monoprice and others, are getting better.

There are plenty of products out there designed for the home-theater market that cost less than $500—including the Asus' EEEBox line and the Lenovo IdeaCenter Q700. Plus, there is always the option of buying refurbished or upgrading a cheap PC yourself to control costs.

If you want to cheat and record broadcast shows, you still don't have to pay for cable—you can get an over-the-air HD TV tuner. Generally, a USB dongle TV tuner or PCI card like those from Hauppage will cost $100 or so, and they work reasonably well, though you may need an external antenna for best results. You don't have to pay for service, and you can be assured of local news and other local programming, if that's important to you. Just don't come crying to us if you can't get your rabbit ears into just the right position.

No matter what computer and accessories you use, the added cost will probably pay for itself pretty quickly when you start canceling all those expensive subscriptions. As I mentioned earlier, going broadband-only will save me about $80 a month in satellite fees—in 8 months, I will have recouped my $600 home-theater PC investment.

In the end, my entire monthly TV entertainment budget runs about $60—that's $50 for basic broadband plus $10 for Netflix. Compare that to the $140 I would have paid starting in February for the combination of all that plus DirecTV. (As a sports fan, there are online programs that I do pay extra for, but you get what you pay for—as you'll see below.)

How To Manage and Control Your TV Content

You will have to sacrifice the basic (if not exactly pretty) UI you are used to. Fortunately, things are getting better. Hulu Desktop looks more like what you would find with a broadcast set-top box, and with Windows Media Center, having Netflix and other plug-ins makes finding and watching on-demand shows a whole lot easier. And there's at least one new website, Clicker that is taking a crack at organizing internet content into an easy-to-use programming guide.

Fortunately, I managed to keep the number of remotes on my coffee table to a minimum. I have a Windows Media Center remote to handle Netflix, DVDs, Hulu Desktop and downloads. Mac users have their own little white remote which handles much of this functionality, too. (A wireless keyboard and mouse are essential for more intricate navigation and many PC functions, but those can stay out of sight for the most part.)

iPhone/iPod Touch apps like Air Mouse and iTunes Remote have made my iPhone an all-in-one solution for controlling my computer and its software.

Watching Your Favorite Shows

I'm not a TV addict by a long shot, but there are shows that I watch religiously. These shows include 30 Rock, Lost, Family Guy, Californication and Dexter. The following graph illustrates the pluses and minuses of viewing a handful of different shows—not just my favorites—from popular networks.

The newest episodes of many of these shows are on Hulu, which mostly hosts fresh content—there isn't a huge back catalog of shows. The catch with new shows, on Hulu or on network websites, is that you usually have to wait a day to see them. (For many DVR devotees, that's not a big deal anyway.)

It's also important to point out that certain networks tease their new seasons in many locations online—NBC has been offering free HD downloads of many new shows on iTunes, in hopes you'll buy the season pass for $40 or more.

Netflix is another place where networks promote new shows: I was able to see the first episode of Californication and Dexter on Netflix during their limited time Watch Instantly preview. Speaking of that, Showtime shows, if available at all, do tend to appear on Netflix, but mostly only in re-runs.

As you can see, not everything streams in HD quality, although this appears to be changing. ABC is already streaming in HD, and others like Hulu and Netflix are dabbling, so it's only a matter of time before HD content is widely available for streaming online.

What's Not Online

CBS, HBO and Discovery: I'm talkin' to you. I couldn't care less about CBS programming—though it's the #1 rated network, so clearly somebody does. CBS.com (and TV.com) offers a handful of full episodes (CSI and NCIS), and some of those show up in Netflix too, but until CBS decides their agenda, you may have to wait for new seasons of Big Bang Theory to show up on DVD, or try to record over-the-air broadcasts (see above).

I love History Channel and Discovery Channel, and these guys are also reluctant to accept reality, move away from old revenue models and look towards the future. Nonetheless, I still get my fix though Netflix. Early seasons of some of my favorite shows (Deadlest Catch, Man vs Wild) are available for streaming via Watch Instantly, and more recent seasons are available for rental. I have the patience to wait for some of my favorite shows to arrive on DVD or Blu-ray—it's a virtue that could save you lots of money.

Let's Talk Live Sports

Traditionally, one of the major drawbacks of internet TV is a lack of live sports. Again, I don't know what sports and teams you are interested in, but for me it is all about football. For example, a few days ago I checked out the Steelers/Chargers game on NBC Sunday Night Football online. The streaming content is "HD" quality (at least it's in the realm of HD) and the service offers a viewing experience that is actually deeper than a standard broadcast. Users have access to DVR style controls, four separate camera angles, highlights and live analysis.

I also have the privilege of access to my beloved out-of-market NY Giants games each week with DirecTV's online Supercast service. It broadcasts all of the Sunday Ticket NFL games over the internet, but access to the online content requires DirecTV service and the full SuperFan package that runs a ridiculous $400 per year (Manhattan residents can access Supercast without DirecTV service). However, if you know someone with a Supercast account, you can piggyback.

If baseball is your thing, MLB.com offers a service similar to Supercast for around $100 per year depending on the package—although it only includes out-of-market games. Live golf can be viewed for free on PGATour.com; college sports, baseball, tennis, soccer and more is free on ESPN360 (if you are affiliated with an ESPN-approved broadband provider) and streaming sites like Justin.tv offer plenty of free sports viewing options, including live ESPN. Windows Media Center owners can also get SportsLounge, with Fox Sports.

The Future?

This is still the wild west, and things are apt to keep changing. I already mentioned services like DirecTV's Supercast and streaming games from MLB.com. Little by little, you will start to see primetime shows or packages offered a la carte online too. I hope we don't get to a point where we are paying more for access to online content than we now pay for cable content, but there has been serious talk by executives from Time Warner (HBO), CBS and Hulu (Fox, NBC, Disney) about that very thing: Either charge subscribers for premium content on demand, or simply verify that they are already paying customers of cable and satellite, and grant them access to stuff others can't see.

If the broadcasters have their way, you'll pay for it one way, or you'll pay for it another. Still, technology has a way of keeping pace with the dreams of media execs, and the experiments conducted by YouTube and Hulu and others with advertising may lead to some kind of compromise, too. It is really all up in the air, but for now...

What You Should Think About

When all was said and done, I found my experience without standard cable television to be more liberating than anything else. Sure, streaming video isn't always HD quality, not all of my favorite shows are readily available, and I have to search around a bit more for the things I want to watch—but I didn't suffer and I didn't feel like I was missing out. The added expense was not justifiable—especially when I was paying for a bunch of things I never watched. The best part is that I was able to get pretty much everything I needed with a basic set of tools that anyone with a computer can take advantage of right away.

Not everyone shares my taste in television but, at the very least, you should take a good look at your cable or satellite bill and ask yourself if it's really worth all that money.

•Why You Should Buy a Refurbished Laptop: Just because a laptop isn't brand new doesn't mean its worthless. Refurbished laptops are a great way to get all the hardware you need on a budget.

•Why You Should Stop Buying Your Laptops Fully Loaded: Don't be tricked into buying a computer fully loaded from the manufacturer. Doing the upgrades yourself can offer lots of value.

•Why You Don't Need Fancy Gym Gadgets and Memberships: Getting in kick ass shape doesn't require expensive gym memberships and equipment.

•Screw the Recession: How To Spend Less and Get More: Saving money doesn't always mean making big sacrifices. These tips can help you streamline your tech spending at home.

•Green Tech Upgrades That Boost Home Values and Reduce Bills: Investing in these tech upgrades for your home can actually be profitable in the long run.

•Why You Can't Complain About The Price Of Today's Gadgets: Let's put things in perspective here. You actually have it pretty good these days when it comes to the price of gadgets.

•The Real Cost of Upgrading to Windows 7 and Mac OS X Snow Leopard: Before you make the jump to a new OS, make sure you are buying smart.

Unlike that philosophy class you're taking this semester, Smart Gadget Shopping 101 is actually useful in your everyday life. So be prepared—we don't grade on a curve here.

To put that into perspective, 200 gallons will fill roughly 2000 12 oz bottles of beer or about 1000 standard 750mL bottles of wine. You can't sell it, that's illegal, but you can drink it yourself. While setting sail on a river of beer might seem enticing, many people are wary of homebrewing because it appears to be overly complex and scientific—but the truth is that basic beer and winemaking isn't much more difficult than making soup. And the best part is that doing it yourself can have you enjoying a better quality of beverage at a substantially reduced cost.

Ingredients
With both wine and beer, your finished product is only as good as your ingredients. As a beginner, I urge you to stick with all-in-one ingredient kits or extract recipies until you are ready to commit the time and additional equipment expense to branch out into more complex recipes like all grain brewing and wine from whole grapes. Kits are relatively inexpensive and include all of the ingredients and instructions to make a particular style of beer or wine. For example, I recently purchased a Hefeweizen kit (with liquid yeast upgrade) for about $40. Throw in six gallon jugs of spring water and I'm going to end up with about 50 bottles of quality beer for about 85 cents apiece. Even the cheapest beer costs around a buck a bottle when purchased at a store.

Wine kits work in much the same way and will usually run you between $70 and $200 on average. So, if you were looking for an everyday wine, a $70 kit with a bag of corks and six gallons of spring water (for the concentrated grape juice) would yield 30 bottles of wine at less than $3 a bottle. It's not going to be a world-class wine or anything, but its probably going to be on par with bottles you would pay twice as much for in a store. Keep in mind that ingredient kits are sometimes bundled with starter equipment kits, which could mean greater savings.

Sanitation and Water
Outside of the main ingredients, various sanitary compounds and bottled water will usually be your only other repeat purchases. Near obsessive compulsive sanitation practices are of the utmost importance, so you will definitely need compounds like One-Step no rinse sanitizer or Sodium Metabisulfite (wine only). These compounds only cost a few dollars for a decent supply and can be bought in bulk if necessary.

Homebrewers are fussy about their water and there are a lot of contradictory opinions floating around about what type of water you should be using. Generally, the rule of thumb is spring water for beer because it lacks off odors and flavors and it possesses nutrients that feed the yeasts needed for fermentation. Some claim that distilled water is best for wine because of its purity while others claim that it should be avoided because it has been stripped of nutrients. As far as I'm concerned, spring water is probably your best bet in both cases. Obviously, buying this in the store will bring your overall costs up—but tap water is going to be fine as long as it is thoroughly filtered.

Equipment
There is a startup cost associated with this hobby of course, but your investment will eventually pay for itself if you are brewing in any significant quantity. As I noted earlier, the ingredients and various sanitation compounds that you will be buying again and again are inexpensive when compared to a finished product you buy at the store. Most homebrewing stores or online merchants will offer a starter's set that will provide most if not all of the necessary gadgets and equipment for up to $100 (without ingredients). Plus, basic beer and winemaking can be done at home with (mostly) the same set of tools. You may even have some of this stuff lying around the house already.

Standard Beer Starter's Kit:
• 6.5 gallon plastic fermenting bucket
• Bottling bucket with spigot
• Airlock - Allows gases to escape during fermentation without air exposure; comes in several varieties
• Triple-scale hydrometer - Lets you take measurements on sugar percentage, alcohol potential and specific gravity
• Bottle capper - There are several varieties, but most kits will come with a standard handheld version
• Racking stem - Part of the siphon system that is used to "rack" or transfer wine/beer into different containers
• Siphon tubing
• Spring-loaded bottle filler
• Cleaning brushes
• Rubber stoppers

Necessities That Might Not Come With Your Starter Kit:
• One big-ass brew kettle - 20 quart is fine, but I urge picking up a 30 quart that allows you to brew up more wort (unfermented beer) without worrying about boil over. Stainless steel is recommended. I was able to purchase the kettle above for $75 at my local brewmaster store, but you might be able to find something even cheaper at Walmart or on Craigslist.
• Floating thermometer - These are only a few bucks at Walmart.
• Long Handled Spoon - You probably already own something that would work.
• Around fifty 12 oz brown glass beer bottles, forty 16 oz bottles or thirty 22 oz bottles for a standard 5 gallon batch - Start saving your empties now, because these are a ripoff to buy separately.
• A long, shallow plastic bin - These are great for sterilizing your instruments with a minimum of water and solution. You may also want to consider a large, deep bucket if your sink isn't big enough to properly fit your kettle and icewater when it comes time to chill the wort. If you don't already have these on hand, both should only set you back $5-$10 apiece.
• A funnel - Useful in both beer and winemaking, you probably have several lying around in your home right now. Larger sizes for racking and filtering beer can be found for $10 or less.

Standard Wine Starters Kit:
A wine starter's kit comes with just about everything that a beer version does. The differences are that the fermenting bucket may be a bit bigger, the bottling bucket will be replaced with a 6-gallon glass or plastic jug known as a carboy (though some beer starter kits do include a carboy) and the capper will be replaced with a corking instrument. There is no need for a kettle since wine is not boiled, but the other extras will definitely be useful. Again, remember to save your empty bottles—about 30 for a standard 6 gallon batch. You may also need to buy a set of 30 corks, which usually run less than $10.

Gadgets You Might Want To Consider:
Although not necessary, you will probably find yourself looking for these time-saving gadgets somewhere down the line, (mostly) regardless of whether you're making wine or beer.
• Drill-mounted stirring rod - Takes the armwork out of stirring liquid in the fermenter or carboy and its excellent at removing or "de-gasing" CO2 from wine. Also good for aerating wort to promote yeast action. These can usually be had for around $20.
• Auto-siphon - Racking wine or beer requires you to create a vacuum that will transfer the fluid through the siphon assembly to another container. An auto-siphon handles this with a simple pump action. It's also great at preventing sediment from going along for the ride. These run $10 to $15.
• Wine or beer thief - Used for cleanly extracting samples of your brew for hydrometer testing—some even double as a hydrometer tube. You can get proper instruments at a homebrew store for under $10, but a turkey baster will work just fine in most situations.
• Floor corker - If you are making wine, you may not be satisfied with hand corkers. They are super easy to use and insure a proper fit every time, which reduces the chance of oxidation. These usually run from $50 to $120, but can be rented for a day at most brewmaster stores.
• Bottle sterilizers/rinsers - Makes the job of sterilizing bottles easier and it uses less water. Basic versions can be found for $20 or less.
• Carboy handles - Glass carboys are slippery and fragile. If only I had one before I broke a six gallon carboy full of wine all over my kitchen floor. It was epically bad. Less than $10 will save you from this horror. Plastic carboys are also available.

As you mature as a homebrewer, you will find even more ways to cut costs down—experienced all-grain brewers can make bottles of beer for 50 cents or less (although you will need more expensive equipment). However, in the beginning it pays to get your feet wet with the basics. It also pays to look for quality bundles—there are an endless array out there that range from starter sets to super deluxe packages. Just make sure to shop around at local stores and online before you buy. For example, a starters kit from Northern Brewer includes an auto siphon and 144 bottle caps for the same price as one from Brewer's Outpost without the pump action siphon and only 50 caps.

Because of all the factors involved, determining how long it will take to recoup your equipment investment is hard to say. Even time is a factor: Many kit beers are drinkable in a month's time while basic kit wines usually take at least 3 to 6 months—longer if you want improved quality. If you are comparing the cost of your craft beer and wine to the cheapest of swills, the craft brews will lose every time. It's about quality—and quality beer in the store is going to probably run $9 or $10 for a six pack. If you are producing beer of a similar quality at home for less than a dollar a bottle, the math works out well. Plus basic wine and beer making use [mostly] the same set of tools, so you can get more out of your equipment by producing both throughout the year.

Many of you readers are homebrewers and winemakers too. How about sharing your own tips for saving money while expanding your beverage horizons?

Taste Test is our weeklong tribute to the leaps that occur when technology meets cuisine, spanning everything from the historic breakthroughs that made food tastier and safer to the Earl-Grey-friendly replicators we impatiently await in the future.

Top Image via Spewing Obscenities

You may have a few questions: Am I eligible for a cheap upgrade? How about a "free" upgrade? What's this about family packs? Should I be shopping for a new Mac? Not to worry, Prof. Dealzmodo will help clear things up.

As you can see from this handy chart,, the process of upgrading to a new OS is a little more straightforward for Mac users than it is with Windows. Again, everything starts with meeting the minimum system requirements, which in this case means bye-bye, Power PC—you gotta have an Intel chipset:

• Mac with an Intel Processor
• 1GB of memory
• 5GB of disk space
• DVD drive (though MacBook Airs can "Remote Install" from another computer)

Snow Leopard Pricing
Upgrading from Leopard is the easiest: $29. If you own multiple Macs, a Family pack is just $20 more: $49 for 5 users. Keep in mind, though, that Snow Leopard does not have any activation restrictions, so buying a Family Pack for two or three computers is kind of a waste of money (though using a single-Mac disc on multiple machines is technically illegal). Just remember, if you need tech support on any of your multiple machines during the 90 days that you are covered after buying the OS, you'll have to have a legit software license.

If you bought a Mac anytime after June 8, you get Snow Leopard even cheaper with the "Up-To-Date" program: $10. Sure, it's not "free" like Windows 7, but Apple sends you the install disc, and says that the $10 mostly goes to shipping and handling.

The Tiger Catch
Apple has said it themselves:

For Tiger users with an Intel-based Mac, the Mac Box Set includes Mac OS X Snow Leopard, iLife '09 and iWork '09 and will be available for a suggested price of $169 (US) and a Family Pack is available for a suggested price of $229 (US).

And retailers are doing a good job of making sure people know:

If you are an Intel Mac user running OS X 10.5 or above (Leopard), then there is no reason why you shouldn't take advantage of such an inexpensive upgrade to Snow Leopard. However, OS X 10.4 (Tiger) users will be forced to pick up one of the much pricier boxed sets that bundle Snow Leopard, iLife and iWork if they want to make the jump. iWork '09 is about $55 on Amazon, so you're getting something for your money, but it may not be what you want.

If you fall into this latter category, I would say it might be time to start looking into a new Mac with Snow Leopard and iLife '09 pre-installed, rather than putting an additional $169 into a dated machine. This is especially true if you are are still running a PowerPC, which can't be upgraded at all.

UPDATE: As Mossberg and others have noted, Tiger users with Intel processors can buy the $29 disc and upgrade to Snow Leopard without buying the Box Set or having to install Leopard first. However, Mossberg and others failed to point out that this is a breach of the license agreement. We obviously want you to know what's possible, but also what might fall into a legal gray area. The ultimate decision is yours.

From time to time, Apple abandons users of dated machines and OSes—the rationale is that it keeps them from having the heavily layered code that Windows is always criticized for. Still, if you're the guy running Tiger on an old PPC machine, you're definitely feeling like a second-rate citizen in the Apple-verse. It's time to move up... or move on.

Of course, dropping over $1000 on a MacBook might not be in the cards for everyone right now (although a Mac Mini is a relatively affordable way to get your foot in the door at $600), but it is important to consider that Apple's Up-To-Date Program offers a Snow Leopard upgrade for $10 on purchases that include qualified refurbished systems. I've said it before and I'll say it again—buying refurbished is the smarter move.

[Back to our Complete Guide to Snow Leopard]

[Background Image via Flickr]

You may have a few questions: Am I eligible for a cheap upgrade? How about a free upgrade? What's this about family packs? Should I be shopping for a new computer? Not to worry, Prof. Dealzmodo will help clear things up. First, let's start with the basics.

Is Your PC Ready?
If you have your heart set on upgrading to Windows 7, you need to meet minimum system requirements. For most of us, that ain't no thang:

• 1 gigahertz (GHz) or faster 32-bit (x86) or 64-bit (x64) processor
• 1 gigabyte (GB) RAM (32-bit) or 2 GB RAM (64-bit)
• 16 GB available hard disk space (32-bit) or 20 GB (64-bit)
• DirectX 9 graphics device with WDDM 1.0 or higher driver

If you can't hit these minimum numbers, I feel for you. It also means you will have to factor new hardware into the total upgrade cost.

To be honest, it's probably in your best interest to exceed these requirements moving forward. The good news is that there are many PCs out there that would more than satisfy your hardware needs for $500 or less.

The 64-bit Question
Every Windows 7 box, upgrade or full, comes with both a 32-bit and a 64-bit version of the OS, so you have a choice. You should probably brush up on the details of this transition, but in the meantime, just know that it mostly comes down to RAM: If you have 3GB or less, you can run 32-bit, but if you have 4GB or more, you'll need 64-bit to get the most out of your system.

We recommend the latter, for future coverage, and fortunately, RAM upgrades are damn cheap these days. In fact, you can get 4GB of DDR2 memory for less than $70 pretty easily. And if you are already running a Intel Core 2 Duo processor or better, you don't need to upgrade the chipset to enjoy the benefits of 64-bit computing. Either way, getting caught up on the CPU won't run you much more than $100 if you shop around. As I pointed out in this must-read column, it pays to upgrade hardware yourself. Only suckers pay manufacturer's prices.

Windows 7 Pricing
Standard:
• Windows 7 Home Premium: $120 for upgrade; $200 for full version
• Windows 7 Professional: $200 for upgrade; $300 for full version
• Windows 7 Ultimate: $220 for upgrade; $320 for full version
• Family Pack: $149

Anytime Upgrades:
• Windows 7 Starter Edition (you do not want this) to Home Premium: $80
• Home Premium to Professional: $90
• Professional to Ultimate: $140

Free Upgrades:
If you purchase a qualifying PC with Vista installed between now and January 31st you are eligible for a free Windows 7 upgrade. However, this only applies to participating manufacturers and products. Check out Microsoft's upgrade page for a list of these manufacturers. This also applies to anyone who purchases Vista retail packaged products.

Which Version of Windows 7 Should I Get?
If you are running something other than a Windows OS or an OS that pre-dates Windows XP that means you will have to buy the full retail copy—you're not eligible for the upgrade that pretty much everyone else is eligible for. If you fall into this slim category, there is a good chance you'll have to upgrade hardware as well. In that case, strongly consider putting your money into a new PC with Windows 7 already installed—there's no reason to pay $200 to $300 for the OS alone, when decent computers cost $500.

You can pretty much skip Microsoft's handy-but-convoluted upgrade chart when determining which path is right for you, though you may want to consult Ed Bott's easier-to-follow version, originally published on ZDNet:

There are really only three decisions most people will make: Home Premium, Professional or Ultimate, as the other versions are not offered to retail buyers. Most people will get Home Premium—if you are shopping for Professional or Ultimate, even you probably don't need the upgrade chart, because you know what you're looking for.

Whatever you do, try to avoid the Anytime Upgrade, the convenient but costly way to jump from, say, Home Premium to Ultimate. If, for example, there is even a slight chance that you might upgrade from Professional to Ultimate, it makes sense to just go for Ultimate right off the bat. An outright upgrade to Windows 7 Ultimate costs $220, but upgrading to Professional then deciding later on to go to Ultimate will cost you $340 total.

What About Netbooks?
In the vast majority of cases, upgrading to Windows 7 from a netbook doesn't make sound financial sense. If you look at the prices, upgrades can cost more than half what you paid for the netbook in the first place. My recommendation here is to wait on purchasing a netbook until an optimized build of Windows 7 is pre-installed.

Furthermore, if you aren't prepared to deal with the Starter Edition, don't buy a netbook running it—go right for Home Premium if possible. The Anytime Upgrade to Home Premium will run you $80—which is probably still a chunk of change when compared to the price of the netbook itself. Seriously, I think that Starter Edition's sole purpose is to screw netbook users. And if you keep your wallet in a back pocket—yes...they're screwing you from behind. As far as I'm concerned, the only way it might make some financial sense to purchase an OS upgrade for a netbook is if you run Windows on multiple computers and you decide to purchase a Family Pack license—and you are comfortable dealing with different kinds of OS installations. That will at least allow you to run Home Premium on three machines for about $50 a pop.

[Back to our Complete Guide to Windows 7]

Source image from Flickr

Cellular technology had been in development since the early '50s, but cellphones didn't become commercially available until Motorola's DynaTAC 8000X gained FCC acceptance in 1983. The DynaTAC had 30 minutes of talk time, 8 hours of standby and memory for 30 numbers. It was also big enough to club that punk kid with the Flock of Seagulls haircut without getting blood on your favorite tweed jacket (you know, the one with the elbow pads). And the worst part is that you would have paid $4,000 for the privilege, $8,589 when you calculate for inflation. Needless to say, spending $200, or even $400, for the latest smartphone doesn't seem like a bad deal comparatively. [Image via TUAW]

The point is this: We all like to complain about the price of our gadgets, but the truth is that factors like increased competition and better manufacturing technologies have made the gadgets we buy today seem like extreme bargains when put in a historical context. Let's take a look at some more examples:

VCRs vs Blu-ray Players
In the late '70s, JVC's 30-pound HR-3300 VHS player rolled out onto load-bearing retail shelves with a price tag of about $1400 ($4,124 in 2009 dollars). The rival Sony SL-5400 Betamax player with its new fangled fast forward and rewind capability wasn't much better at $1250 ($3682 in 2009 dollars).

In contrast, the Samsung BD-P1000 was one of the first Blu-ray players to hit the US in 2006—and it debuted for around $1000. That same year you could buy a Blu-ray player in a PS3 for under $500. Today, basic Blu-ray players can be had for less than $100. That's a 90% drop in just three years.

Computers Then and Now
If the Apple II was too rich for your blood, you could have gone out and purchased the base model Atari 800 with up to 48K RAM and a 1.8MHz MOS 6502 processor for $1000 ($2,946). Want a floppy drive with that? No problem, that will be $600 ($1,767) extra. I'll even throw in a black-on-white dot-matrix printer for $450 ($1,326). If you are looking for something in the budget range, the original Radio Shack Tandy TRS-80 with 4-16K RAM and a 1.77 MHz Zilog Z-80A processor starts at $600 ($1,767).

If you have a little more money to burn I could hook you up with the TRS-80 Model II with 64K RAM, 12" monochrome monitor (40x24 or 80x24 text), and a built-in 500K 8-inch floppy drive for $3899 ($11,485). To put things into perspective, $11,000 is about what some silly gamer would pay for a top-of-the-line Alienware ALX X58 desktop with all the bells and whistles—including an overclocked Core i7-975 Extreme processor, dual 1.792MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 295 GPUs, 24GB of RAM, and 2 x 256GB SSDs (with 2TB of additional storage), not to mention a 30-inch high-def LCD monitor.

As you'll see later on, in the late 1970s, many computers cost the same as new cars.

Gaming Consoles Then and Now
If you were gaming at home in the late '70s, chances are you had the Atari 2600. It was the first console to feature plug-in cartridges and it cost $200 ($589) at launch. All in all, that figure is comparable to some configurations of the Xbox 360 and PS3 at launch, but it is important to consider that the latter consoles do more than just play games, acting as movie players, music decks, telecommunications hubs, all of which would have meant buying separate, expensive, primitive components back then.

Cassette Walkman vs MP3 Players
The cassette tape reigned supreme 30 years ago; for most music lovers today, it's all about the download. Difference is, you can get an iPod shuffle that holds about 1000 songs for $79 (and many other MP3 players cost far less). In 1979, a cassette Walkman that could only play one Supertramp album at a time cost $200 ($589).

Televisions Then and Now
Television price records from the period around the late '70s are spotty at best, because then, as now, pricing was ultracompetitive. But it is clear that most people would have to be content with a 25-inch set (and it was probably encased in a 2-ton ornate wooden shell). According to tvhistory.tv, color console models like a 25-inch Sylvania cost $530 to $850 ($1,561 to $2,503), and a 19-inch JVC "tabletop" model at $560 ($1,650). On the other hand, black-and-white models like a 22-inch Motorola console ran about $260 ($766).

Today, you can randomly walk into just about any electronics store and get a 40- to 50-inch 1080p HDTV for around $1000. If you settle for 720p you could be talking $500 or less depending on the size, and those would all be in full color, too. Old fashioned tube TVs, (the B&W sets of 2009) cost $100 to $300 new—if you can even find one.

Other Popular Gadgets
How much did other gadgets cost in the late '70s?

• Clothes Washer/Dryer: From $199 and $219 respectively ($586 to $645)—that's fairly comparable to today's lower-end models. Although, if you are on a budget you can easily find models that are significantly cheaper.

• Microwave: From $169 ($498)—today many standard microwaves can be had for $60 or less.

• Dishwasher: From $259 ($763)—today you can easily find basic dishwashers for $300 or less.

• Stereo System: $299 ($884)—options vary of course, but that's what a typical AM/FM/8-Track/record stereo system cost. Today there are a ridiculous number of devices available to play and stream music in the house—many with their own included speakers and amplifier, not to mention wireless connectivity and vast internal music and video storage—that cost less than half that.

• Calculator: $25 ($73)—Calculators come attached to everything these days but in the late '70s, if you wanted to score an original TI-30, it would have set you back a few bucks. Today's TI-30 models cost $20 or less. [The People History]

Cars Then and Now
Cars exist on a different plane than consumer electronics. Due to a different system of manufacturing, R&D and labor, prices have not steadily trended downward—in fact, quite the contrary. For example, The People History gives us a good idea about the price of specific cars 30 years ago—including models that are still in production today. One of those cars, the Toyota Corolla, is listed at $3,698 ($10,893). Today, a Toyota Corolla starts at around $15,350. On the higher end, the Chevy Corvette ran about $12,313 ($36,270) in 1979. Today, a base model Corvette sells for around $45,515.

Still, if you have been thinking about getting a new vehicle, this might be the best time in 30 years to do so. According to Comerica's annual Auto Affordability Index, cars are actually more affordable now than they were in 1979. Plus, the economy is forcing automakers and the government to offer all kinds of incentives which are pushing prices even lower. [Image via Free By 50]

By now you are probably getting the idea—being a tech nerd is cheaper than ever. Sure, new technology is going to be expensive, but that is a consequence that most early adopters are willing to accept. The good news is that, for the most part, manufacturers are charging much lower early adopter premiums when compared to 30 years ago (and charging them for a shorter period of time). With fierce competition and advanced manufacturing driving down the price of new technology at a blistering rate, it takes less patience than ever to reap greater and greater rewards. So quit yer bitchin'! [Top Image via RetroWow]

Gizmodo '79 is a week-long celebration of gadgets and geekdom 30 years ago, as the analog age gave way to the digital, and most of our favorite toys were just being born.

Fans

At the very least a regular fan, a twin window fan that takes advantage of cool night air, room to room fan, or even a bed fan could help save a little extra money—especially if the outside temperature cools sufficiently in your area.

If you have the option of installing a ceiling fan, it can be one of the simplest and most inexpensive ways to reduce energy costs in the home. The average price is around $100 per fan, they can be easily self-installed (as long as you have an existing ceiling light) and they can save you as much as 40% on your energy bills this summer. Take this example from Progress Energy:

...a 48", 75-watt fan used 10 hours a day at half speed or less would cost $.50 to $.90 a month to operate. For a 1,500-square-foot house with air conditioning using two ceiling fans and raising the thermostat setting could save about $70 to $200 over a six-month cooling season.

This is precisely why I just ordered four new fans for my home. Three of the four will be installed upstairs in each of the bedrooms. There will be absolutely no need for A/C at night, and I expect to dramatically lower central air usage on the upper level during the day.

Window A/C Units: Who Should Have One?

The bottom line is that window units use far less electricity than central air units. For example, a typical, medium-sized window unit might use 500 to 1440 watts of electricity per hour while a 2.5 ton central system might use 3500 watts over the same span. Because central air units cool an entire home, users often waste energy in areas that are not occupied. For example, if you live in a small apartment, a 12,000 BTU window unit could effectively cool a 640 square foot space for an upfront cost of around $300. This Fridgidaire model is also Energy Star certified, meaning that it should provide at least an additional 10% savings in monthly energy costs—making it a wise investment when compared to a traditional model. In an apartment around 800 square feet, that would most likely cover the main living space and could be supplemented with something as small as a 5,000 BTU unit for a bedroom. Hell, you might even be able to get away with only a fan—after all, bedrooms see most of their use after the sun has gone down.

Things to consider when buying a window A/C unit:

• Bigger is not better. Too many on/off cycles will reduce efficiency and add result in unnecessary wear and tear. Make sure your A/C unit is sized properly for your room by matching capacity with square footage.
• Make sure your unit has at least three speeds (low, medium and high).
• Buy a model with a thermostat to fine tune your comfort level and save electicity.
• Clean your filters regularly.
• Choose a model with a timer. This gives you even greater flexibility and ensures that the unit is only running when needed.
• Consider building a unit directly into your wall to eliminate the hassle of moving it every year. You can also put an insulated / weather-stripped cover on through-the-wall units in the fall. [HVACKey]

So, to answer the question "who should have one?," I would suggest that people living in small apartments or homes seriously consider investing in a window A/C unit or two. Even if you have central air, keeping it off in favor of à la carte cooling is going to save you some money. For those that have larger dwellings, individual A/C units might come in handy in a bedroom at night, or in rooms that you spend most of your time in.

Getting the Most Out Of Central Air

If you own a home or an upscale rental, you probably already have a central air unit. But simply tweaking the temperature dial now and then doesn't mean you are getting all of the potential cost savings out of your system.

• Get a programmable thermostat. Those old-timey, temperature-only thermostats are a huge waste of money. Simply being able to program your thermostat to kick on when you get home, or run on 78 degrees instead of 72 degrees overnight can result in savings of around $180 per year for an average home. Also, keep in mind that each degree you set your thermostat below 78 degrees will increase your energy use by 3-4%. Plus, basic programmable thermostats can cost less than $30.
• If installing or replacing a unit, keep in mind that the higher the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) rating of your unit, the more energy efficient it will be. All Energy Star certified units must have a SEER rating of 13 or higher.
• Units with a thermal expansion valve and a high-temperature rating Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) greater than 11.6 will be more efficient when the weather is at its hottest.
• Units with a fan-only switch allow for nighttime ventilation to substantially reduce air-conditioning costs.
• Make sure to check filters every month. [Energy Savers]

You may also want to look into a simple misting unit like the Cool-n-Save. It attaches to your central air unit in minutes and can reduce your energy bills by as much as 30%. Plus, the whole system only sets you back $100. On the downside, it does use a significant amount of water, and it may result in a mineral buildup.

Check For Leaks

The most important step in keeping your home cool is making sure that the structure itself isn't working against you. Obviously, if your house or apartment is leaky or poorly insulated, a lot of cash is going to fly out those holes along with the cold air. Furthermore, If you have a central air system, an average of 20% of the air moving through the duct system is lost because of leaks, holes and poor connections. Even if you can't afford insulation upgrades or a blower test to detect leaks, a few DIY tests and some cheap fixes like weatherstripping could save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars in the long term.

Alternatives

They aren't feasible in every situation, but there are a few cost-effective ways to cool a home that break from the norm. These methods include evaporative coolers (swamp coolers), attic fans, and geothermal systems. However, for most of us, just putting up some shades, adding a ceiling fan or two and/or a window A/C unit or programmable thermostat could result in substantially lower utility bills during the hot summer months. And, if all else fails, there is always air conditioned shirts and ice saunas.

Prof. Dealzmodo is a regular section dedicated to helping budget-minded consumers learn how to shop smarter and get the best deals on their favorite gadgets. If you have any topics you would like to see covered, send your idea to tips@gizmodo.com, with "Professor Dealzmodo" in the subject line. [Background Image via Wikimedia]

Saving Energy
In the previous Prof. Dealzmodo article, I talked about upgrades like switching to CFLs and investigating options for eliminating wasteful standby power like eco-oriented powerstrips. These kinds of upgrades are affordable on most budgets—real no-brainers. However, if you want to go the extra mile and make upgrades that could increase the value of your home, here are some products to consider:

• Solar Power: Okay, let's get right to it. When people think "green," they think of solar panels. But according to the most recent data compiled by the Energy Information Administration, the average US home uses somewhere around 30 kilowatthours (kWh) of electricity per day. That translates into $1500 to $2000 a year on electricity bills. Generally, a 1kWh (1000 watt) system is recommended for every 1000 square feet of floor space (depending on where you live) and you can expect to pay around $8 to $10 per watt installed. Throw in an inverter or two to covert the sun's DC power into AC and a battery bank and you are talking $20000 or more for a complete system.

So it seems that if you don't live in a home for 20 years or more, you will not see a return on this investment. However, there is a strong chance that your local government and utility companies will offer incentives like tax breaks, discounts or up-front cash rebates to subsidize the cost of your system, provided your homeowners association approves of your plans.

As CNN points out, Texas-based Austin energy currently provides rebates of $3.75 per watt—so right away you could probably shave nearly $4000 off of the $10000 price tag of a 1kWH system. Texas also offers a tax exemption "of the amount of the appraised property value that arises from the installation or construction of a solar or wind-powered energy device."

On top of that the Federal Government offers substantial tax credits for installing photovoltaic systems. As far as home values are concerned, the US Department of Housing and Urban Development estimates that the value of a home rises $20 for every $1 in reduced monthly electricity bills.

Obviously, the effectiveness of a photovoltaic system depends on a number of factors like the amount of sunlight your location receives and the position of the panels in relationship to the position of the sun in the sky. But when you add up all of the possible incentives, and you figure out just how sunny it is where you live, the expense looks like it might be worth it.

• Wind Turbines: Harnessing wind power is often a great way to supplement an existing solar array and can generate a surprising amount of power if you live in a suitable climate. A small residential turbine rated between 5kWh and 15kWh generally costs somewhere between $6000 and $22000 installed. Again, there are local and federal incentives that can help to cut costs and recoup your expenses faster. The downside is that if you don't live in a very windy area, or can't get your neighbors to permit you to reach the height required to get a turbine really going, it's a non-option.

• Energy Star Appliances: This was mentioned in last week's article but it bears repeating. These devices use 10% to 50% less energy than their power-sucking counterparts, and you don't have to ask your homeowners association permission to install them (for the most part). Do a little math, and you find that the premium price of these appliances will be paid back in good time—plus the energy savings will be attractive to buyers if appliances are part of the deal when you eventually sell your house.

• Greenswitches: If you want a simple way to reduce the power consumption in your home, check out a company called GreenSwitch. By quickly re-wiring your home with single-control outlets, each outlet can be designated as green or standard as needed. All you need to do is flick a single switch and all of the electronics in the home that run on standby power—and plugged into green outlets—are turned off. A system like this can save 8% to 10% a year in energy bills and "costs between $500 and $1000 for an average home." That means it's paid off in three to five years. If the installation prices get cheaper, it will be a pretty fast money-saver.

• Argon-Filled Windows: Most double-paned windows are vacuum sealed, so there's nothing between them at all. But windows filled instead with argon or krypton gas are said to help insulate the interior of a home better, and block UV rays. Prices of the units and the money saved vary of course, but some sources claim that the results are dramatic. Finehomebuilding.com has provided a handy guide for anyone looking for more information.

• Solar and Gas-Powered Tankless Hot-Water Systems: Solar power isn't just for producing electricity. There are also systems that are devoted to producing hot water—a process that can generate as much as 25% of our utility bills. There are several different configurations involving one of three types of solar collectors and storage tanks. These systems can be either active systems with circulating pumps or passive systems without pumps. Setting up a basic system can run you around $7000 to $8000, but like traditional solar arrays, these installations are often subsidized by local utility companies and the federal government, and add value to a home. Keep in mind that in most cases a traditional water heater will be necessary to fill in the gaps from time to time because hot water cannot be stored indefinitely—or sold back to the utility company.

Speaking of more conventional water heaters, replacing your standard electric or gas heater with a tankless version can save as much as 50% on your hot water bill. The main point: If you're not using hot water, it's not using energy to keep water hot. The life expectancy is twice that of a conventional heater, it takes up a lot less space, and it produces hot water whenever you need it, with a near instant "recovery time"—no more having to deal with people hogging all the hot water by taking really long showers. Systems like this will cost over $1000 but, again, there are incentives in place. For example, if you purchase a tankless heater from Rinnai between Jan 1, 2009 and December 31st 2010 you will be eligible for a tax credit equal to 30% of the full purchase and installation price, up to $1500.

Saving Water
The water bill is another expense that can really bite you in the ass—especially if you live in arid climates or do a lot of yardwork. If you are looking to go beyond simple rain barrels, here are some wise investments for homeowners looking to reduce their water consumption:

• Low-Flow Toilets and Showerheads: Low-flow toilets have come a long way in recent years. Newer models can handle anything you and your butthole can dish out—all while using a modest 1.6 gallons per flush (about half of a standard toilet). Low-flow shower heads have also progressed to a point that they provide great water pressure with low consumption rates that range from 0.5 to 2.5 gallons per minute.

• Gray Water Systems: In a nutshell, a gray water system recycles the water used in showers, sinks and washing machines—but not your toilets—to irrigate your lawn. "Gray water" makes up as much as 80% of our residential wastewater—water we could be re-using to save money. A basic gray-water irrigation system can run as low as $500 to $2500 for an average home. Apparently, untreated water is fine for most irrigation needs, but there are also companies like Pontos out there that use a bioculture and UV light treatment to purify the water. It's just for yard use, though—you're not supposed to drink gray water.

• Efficient Irrigation Systems: I'm not a big lawn guy, but I am a big gadget guy, and speaking of yards, some of the lawn-watering systems out there these days are quite impressive. For example: Toro's TIS-612 Intelli-Sense controller uses pre-programmed information about your landscaping and collects daily weather information via satellite to determine how much water a specific plant should get and when. Units range from 6 to 24 sprinklers, with prices falling between $320 to $1000. A subscription to the WeatherTRAK Everywhere Data Service will cost you a measly $48 per year in additional costs. That's pretty affordable, but the kicker is that because the system is so customized, the makers claim you can save between 20% and 60% on your monthly water bills.

With all of the focus on reducing energy costs and dependence these days, green tech is poised to become one of the biggest draws in the housing market in the decades to come. You have to spend money to make money as they say, but government and utility company incentives combined with energy cost savings make many of these upgrades surprisingly doable and profitable over time. For information on the incentives available in your area, check out DSIRE.

Most importantly, if you're pondering any kind of green upgrade, don't spend a penny until you hear how many pennies are gonna come back your way. If the dealer is mum on the subject, tell him to take a hike, because these subsidies are real.

Prof. Dealzmodo is a regular section dedicated to helping budget-minded consumers learn how to shop smarter and get the best deals on their favorite gadgets. If you have any topics you would like to see covered, send your idea to tips@gizmodo.com, with "Professor Dealzmodo" in the subject line. [Image Credit: Florian Solar Products]

Get Organized
First things first—gather all of your monthly bills and take stock of your situation. Ask yourself questions like: "Do I need this?", "Is this the best service provider?" and "How long has it been since I made changes?"

How About that Landline?
If you are really honest with yourself, there are probably several services that you are paying for that don't produce a good return on their investment. One of the top issues on my list is a landline phone. Obviously there are extenuating circumstances, but fax machines and security systems are often among the excuses people use to hang on to these relics.

For most faxing situations, a scanner and some kind of email or e-fax service will work just fine—we recommend emailing PDFs with embedded signature images where possible.

And, of course, you always have the option of going with VOIP. Vonage offers unlimited local and long distance for $25 a month while unlimited US and Canada Skype accounts start at $3 per month (plus it is also available on cellphones for extra savings). Keep in mind that this price is on top of your current internet connection, so it may be advantageous to investigate bundles.

Take Advantage of Bundles
If you insist on keeping a landline, now is a great time to take advantage of bundled services. As a recent article in the New York Times pointed out, companies like AT&T offer several options for bundling services. Another example is Verizon Fios. If you are fortunate enough to have this option where you live, you can get double and triple freedom bundle packages—the latter combining landline, Fios internet and TV for $95 a month (a $38 savings).

While we are talking about bundles, keep an eye out for upsells. For instance, when I moved recently, I decided to try Road Runner Turbo over their standard service. I found that in my situation, the speed upgrade was barely noticeable and therefore not worth an extra $10 a month—so I dropped it. It's as simple as that.

Fight For Your Rights
The NYT article also made clear that the tried-and-true art of bitching can sometimes make a world of difference. If you feel you are paying too much, let your voice be heard. And don't be afraid to threaten a switch to another provider. Often the representatives you are speaking to are empowered to make a deal.

Security Without the Monthly Fee
A lot of people keep landlines just for security systems, and that's not a bad idea. E911 services from traditional telecoms and VOIP networks automatically tell cops and ambulance services where you live, and where you want to continue to live.

But a lot of security systems can be ripoffs. For one thing, the equipment installation can be riddled with extras. And second, what's the monthly monitoring fee for? In reality, the monitoring service is just a middleman. So in addition to paying a huge installation fee—a new ADT system can easily cost over $1000 (depending on the deal)— and you pay at least $25 per month on top of what you pay for the landline (GSM add-ons can cost even more).

One way to eliminate the cost of a monitoring service and possibly save some money on installation without compromising security in the house is a home security kit. One suggestion is SecureLinc. It doesn't require in-home wiring, and it calls up to four numbers when tripped. You still have to keep the landline, but you wouldn't be paying for monitoring and you still have the option of a GSM modem. Instead of dialing out to a landline, the modem uses a SIM from your wireless carrier. There would be a monthly fee associated with that of course, but it will most likely be cheaper than a monitoring service and maintaining a landline—and you don't have to worry about the line being cut during a break-in. If all else fails, dogs and guns (maybe even dogs with guns) is always an option.

Going on a TV Diet
Looking at my own bills, it's pretty obvious that I spend a great deal of money on my DirecTV service. At the moment I'm taking advantage of a 12-month deal at around $50, but after the year is up the price will shoot up to $75 to $80. To be honest, I really only watch a handful of networks and shows consistently.

So would it be traumatic if I gave up that service completely? Probably not. With Bittorrent and the growing availability of my favorite shows streaming legally online, it is conceivable that I could get by without making a huge sacrifice. Engadget contributing editor Ben Drawbaugh has found success in ditching cable for over-the-air TV and Netflix, along with internet-based extras. Four months and counting.

Obviously, this solution isn't going to work for a total TV addict, but it makes sense for most of us to re-examine our situations to see what might be excessive. I mean, there are often great shows on HBO, but sometimes even HBO can be dry for months at a time, and you can find a lot of their shows online or catch them on DVD/Blu-ray. With all the money you save, you can pay an extra couple of bucks for the Blu-ray bump at Netflix.

Speaking of Netflix, how many movies do you really watch? Is three out at a time too many? If you are not churning and burning these discs, you might be able to get away with a cheaper plan. Even the $9 plan gives you unlimited Watch Instantly, which you should try to take advantage of when possible. (If you are on the $5 plan, for two DVDs per month and up to two hours of Watch Instantly, you may want to drop Netflix altogether, because maybe you need that $5 more than Netflix does.)

Dust Off Your Service Plans
Like most of us, you have probably been sitting on a cellphone or TV plan for years now. If you think your provider will alert you when there is a money-saving change you could benefit from, think again. Many years ago I was on a Sprint plan where night minutes started at 9pm. Sometime later, the plan changed to 7pm. Since I make most of my calls in the evening hours, that change had a big effect on my minutes usage. If I had not done a check at the end of the year, I would have never known. Make sure to check the offerings of your provider and the offerings of competitors to make sure you are getting the deal that fits your needs best.

Go Green
Last but certainly not least we arrive at the energy bill. There is no doubt that energy bills can be one of the biggest monthly expenses. Obviously, elaborate solar arrays are out of the reach for many individuals, but there are plenty of simple, affordable eco-upgrades that will pay for themselves sooner rather than later:

• Ditch the incandescent bulbs. You already know that you should change out those energy sucking incandescent lights for CFLs or LEDs. Seriously, a 60W CFL that only uses 13W of power is a no-brainer. Over the life of that single bulb you might save $40 or $50 in energy costs. It is more expensive up front, but you can bounce into any Walmart and get a decent deal. Besides, how many incandescents will you buy over the course of a CFLs seven year life span?

• Buy Energy Star appliances. Again, there is a premium for Energy star devices up front, but these devices use 10% to 50% less energy or water than their traditional counterparts. You will more than make up for that in energy cost savings in a short amount of time.

• Kill the electricity vampires. You may not know it, but many of your gadgets constantly suck standby power even when they are "off." On the lower end, power strips like the Ecostrip and the Visible Energy UFO help to control this problem. If you are looking for a more elaborate solution, a company like Greenswitch can quickly re-wire the outlets in your home—designating each one as green or standard as needed. If you want to turn off all of the gadgets in your home using standby power, it is as easy as flicking a single switch. A solution like this could potentially save 8-10% of your energy costs and pay for itself in a year or two.

• Get an efficient water heater. There are several options here, but spending the extra cash on something like a tankless water heater could result in a savings of up to 50% on your hot water bills (depending on your usage) because it doesn't store and heat water when it's not needed. It costs significantly more than a traditional heater, but there are usually tax credits that help to subsidize the cost. This goes for other green upgrades as well. Green incentives in your state can be found at DSIRE.

•Go low-flow: Replacing your current shower heads with low-flow versions can reduce your water consumption in the shower by as much as 50%. They cost about as much as regular shower heads, and despite consumption rates between .5 and 2.5 gallons per minute, they can still deliver great water pressure. You can also go low-flow with your toilets and use about half as much water per flush for a price that is comparable to a standard version.

• Get or make a rain barrel. Seriously, we waste far too much water irrigating our lawns. Even if you're not a greenie, there's money to be saved. At the very least you can make a simple rain barrel for less than $40 or buy one for $50-$100 (depending on capacity).

In the end, saving money on your bills is about being proactive and taking action when necessary. Ideally, going through your monthly expenses should be part of a yearly self-audit. It also pays to investigate the financial viability of eco-friendly options because many basic upgrades will start paying off right away.

Prof. Dealzmodo is a regular section dedicated to helping budget-minded consumers learn how to shop smarter and get the best deals on their favorite gadgets. If you have any topics you would like to see covered, send your idea to tips@gizmodo.com, with "Professor Dealzmodo" in the subject line. [Image via Utilityweek]

When it comes right down to it, I want to visit one site with a simple selection of core features that are focused on one thing and one thing only—helping me save money.

Vendors: Naturally, every good comparison engine needs to establish relationships with as many reputable vendors as possible. Giants like PriceGrabber, Shopzilla, Shopping.com, and Yahoo Shopping generally meet this requirement.

Coupons: Sites like RetailMeNot and MyCoupons.com are great, but that data should not be singled out in a standalone site. It should be integrated into standard search results (like Yahoo Shopping).

Price Alerts: Obviously, if I am truly searching for the best deal, I want to be informed when it happens. The tool to set up price alerts should be prominently displayed. PriceSpider does a good job of this. Sites like Become.com even offer price drops via email without registration. On the other hand, sites like Shopzilla don't even appear to have the feature—or they hide it behind a registration form. Of course, there are numerous sites out there like ZooAlerts, PricePinx and Camel Camel Camel that specialize in price alerts, but I don't see much value in those—especially when they are focused entirely on one shopping site like Amazon.

Price Trending: This is one of the new features on the block. Some comparison engines like NexTag and PriceSpider have already done a good job of integrating this feature in with search results, and it could help consumers rate the quality of the current deal by comparing it to prices in the past. Again, there are standalone sites like Gazaro that specialize in this feature, but as comparison site expert Brian A. Smith from comparisonengines.com points out, focusing entirely on price alerts and/or price trending is not an ideal strategy:

In this economy, any site that can help a consumer find a great deal is going to get some attention, and I think price tracking is a smart concept, but it's nothing new. While the sites you mentioned: Gazaro, Zoolert, and PriceSpider have jazzed things up a bit with a web 2.0 look, price tracking has been available on shopping comparison engines (aka price comparison engines) like NexTag and PriceGrabber for a long time. I think that price alerts are a simple feature. I don't think there is enough meat there to make a real product or business. If you look at Gazaro and Zoolert versus PriceSpider, you'll see that PriceSpider is generating much more traffic. I think this is partly because PriceSpider has ventured beyond just price alerts to shopping comparison engine listings.

He also offers a warning:

Just because a price tracking site shows you a seemingly great new alert, the buyer should always beware. Most price tracking sites that I've looked at do not have a deep depth of merchants, but are rather just joining some select affiliate programs through Commission Junction or Linkshare. Because of this, a price drop from one merchant might look impressive, but in the end might not actually provide a consumer with a great deal.

A Clean, Usable UI: With so many details to keep track of, it's not easy to keep things clean. Personally, I have never been a fan of NexTag's layout—it seems kind of text heavy and convoluted to me. On the other hand Shopzilla has taken a more Web 2.0 approach while Google Product Search stays true to the Google design mantra. In the end, this is really a matter of preference.

User and Expert Reviews: Another no-brainer. Again, these should be prominently displayed with the product.

The bottom line is that on their own, the tools listed above give you only part of the picture—but when used together they can be extremely valuable to consumers. None of the websites I have come across are doing everything right—but I feel that sites like NexTag and PriceSpider are headed in the right direction as far as features are concerned while sites like PriceGrabber, Shopzilla and Yahoo Shopping are still tops in terms of overall effectiveness—a sentiment echoed by our expert from comparisonengines:

Consumers should make sure to take a look at a shopping behemoth like Shopzilla or Yahoo! Shopping before making a purchase. Yahoo! Shopping has an extremely comprehensive deal section, and even better, the site integrates coupons right into shopping comparison engine listings so consumers will have greater transparency into the deal (see the listings for Crutchfield, Tiger Direct, and ABT). So using a site like Yahoo! Shopping provides the consumer with a greater number of merchants, a shopping comparison engine experience (sort by price, rating, etc.), and integrates coupons.

Until one site puts all of the pieces together, it will still be necessary to check multiple websites to ensure that you are getting the best deal online. Hopefully, my rant on comparison engines will, at the very least, help you narrow down the search to save both time and money.

Prof. Dealzmodo is a regular section dedicated to helping budget-minded consumers learn how to shop smarter and get the best deals on their favorite gadgets. If you have any topics you would like to see covered, send your idea to tips@gizmodo.com, with "Professor Dealzmodo" in the subject line.

The Basics

Finding free stuff on the internet is all about knowing where to look and what to avoid. Consumer forums like Fat Wallet (in their free section) are a great resource. Other examples include Totally Free Stuff and Giveaway of the Day for free software. Totally Free Stuff even has a section devoted to other freebie sites. At any rate, there are thousands of similar sites spread across the internet that are only a "free stuff" Google search away.

What to Watch Out For:

If there are comments about a free deal, make sure to read them for scam alerts—and keep in mind that a higher number of comments increases the likelihood that the deal is legit.

Gadgets and other hard products are usually free only after rebate (Google search "free after rebate"). Naturally, many of these deals are bait for signing up with credit card companies and other shadiness. I suppose it goes without saying, but it's in your best interests to avoid such offerings. Other freebie deals might require you to sign up for a newsletter or join a site—make sure to read the terms carefully.

The Deals

Hobomodo—Gadgets:
• Epson Stylus Photo Printer for $0 (normally $100 , use these rebate forms: here and here. Valid until 2/15. Terms and Conditions apply).
• HP USB Laser Mouse for $-4.27 (normally $15.73 - use this rebate form).
• Wall Cell Phone Holder for $0 (normally $4.49).

Hobomodo—Software:
• Internet Security Suite Plus 2009 for $0 (normally $129.98 - use this rebate form. Valid through 3/01).
• Nero 9 for $0 (normally $70 - use rebate forms here and here).
• Internet Security Suite Plus 2009 and 1GB Flash Drive for $0 (normally $79.99 - use this rebate form).
• WebEasy 7 Professional Series for $0 (normally $39.99 - use rebate forms here and here).

Hobomodo—Magazines:
• Subscription to American Baby Magazine for $0.
• Subscription to Golf Digest Magazine for $0.
• Subscription to Harper's Bazaar for $0.
• Subscription to Cosmopolitan Magazine for $0 (no longer valid).
• Subscription to Blender Magazine for $0.
• Subscription to Metropolitan Home Magazine for $0.
• 3 Digital Issues of Maxim for $0 (valid through Valentine's Day).

Hobmodo—Food:
• Yogurt Parafit for $0 (normally $2.99 - valid through 2/28).
• Betty Crocker's Warm Delights Minis for $0 (use a fake e-mail address unless you want newsletters from Mrs. Crocker).
• Italian Delight Espresso Beans/Pods for $0.
• Malcolm's Hot Chocolate (4 packs) for $0 (must live in Canada).
• Kellogg's "Smattering" of PopTarts samples throughout the year for $0.
• Chocolate Turtle Chex Mix for $0.
• Diet Dr. Pepper for $0.
• Total Cranberry Crunch Cereal for $0.
• Roaring Lion Energy Drink for $0.
• Chocolate or Cheddar Mini Delights Rice Cakes for $0.

Hobomodo—Miscellaneous Products:
• Escape from Winter Giftpack for $0.
• Lady Speed Stick Deodorant for $0 (must be 18).
• 2009 Harley Davidson V-Rod Muscle Calendar featuring Marissa Miller for $0.
• Protege Lip Gloss for $0 (normally $25).
• 1200 Photo Prints for $0 (use coupon code Free800).
• Space Camp CD for $0.
• Revlon, Garnier Fructis products for $0 (use this rebate form).
• Wilson Combat DVD (regarding shooting sports) for $0.
• 2009 Consumer Action Handbook for $0.
• BMW Moto Madness "Do Not Attempt This" DVD for $0.
• Yankee Candle for $0 (valid through Valentine's Day).

Hobomodo—Samples:
• Harajuku Lovers Fragrance for $0.
• HUGO Element Fragrance Sample for $0.
• Sunkist Lemonade Stand for $0 (must make a pledge to donate profits to charity).
• Nicoderm CQ Sample for $0.
• Energizer Hearing Aid Batteries for $0.
• Hookah Tobacco Samples for $0 (must be 21 or older).
• Surf Detergent Sample for $0.
• StaiNo Tooth Stain Remover Samples for $0.
• Benefiber sample for $0.
• Metamucil sample for $0.
• Stimulant X Fat Burner sample for $0.

So, go forth and find freebies folks. In this economy, there is nothing wrong with being cheap.

Prof. Dealzmodo is a regular section dedicated to helping budget-minded consumers learn how to shop smarter and get the best deals on their favorite gadgets. If you have any topics you would like to see covered, send your idea to tips@gizmodo.com, with "Professor Dealzmodo" in the subject line.

HDTV
Alright, first thing's first—we need to talk HDTVs again. With the game looming, you may be thinking about an upgrade or, in some cases, your first HDTV set. In this economy, spending money is always an issue, but at this point, waiting for even cheaper HDTVs will probably keep you on the sidelines for a good long while. In the meantime, you are missing out on all the crystal-clear action. I mean, even The Simpsons are going high-def this year.

No worries though—retailers are busting out some great deals on HDTVs in anticipation of the Super Bowl crowd. Here are some examples:

• Westinghouse 32'' 1080p LCD HDTV for $364.99 (normally $564.99—use this rebate form).
• Samsung 40'' 1080p LCD HDTV for $1,108.83 plus free shipping and a $200 gift certificate to NFLShop.com (normally $1,699.99—use this gift certificate claim form. Valid through 1/31).
• Vizio 42'' 1080p Widescreen LCD HDTV (factory refurbished) for $589.97 (normally $999.99).
• Toshiba 42" 1080p LCD HDTV for $749 plus free shipping (normally $1,399. Use coupon code "MMCHTV50").
• Toshiba Regza 46'' 1080p LCD HDTV for $999.99 plus free shipping (normally $1,499.99).
• Sharp Aquos 52" 1080p LCD HDTV for $1,449.99 plus free shipping (normally $2,099.99. Use coupon code "MMCHTV50").
• Walmart's Super Bowl HDTV sale—$100 off/$100 Walmart gift card included (for example: 32'' Samsung for $498, 46'' Sony for $1,298).

If you decide to take advantage of these sales or any others you may have found through shopping comparison sites like PriceGrabber.com and Shopping.com, there are a few things you need to keep in mind. Most importantly, you need to know which HDTV is going to work for you and your budget. Our guide How to Choose and HDTV Like a Pro and the followup How To Buy and HDTV Today (Or Any Day) will give you all the information you need to make smart decisions.

It's a good idea to carry around a web-enabled cellphone to comparison shop in the store, or have a friend at a computer standing by. If they have an in-store pickup service, that could lead to even bigger savings—not to mention a guarantee to have your TV before the game on Sunday.

What To Watch Out For
As always, it's almost always a good idea to avoid pricey warranties, profit-heavy accessories like HDMI cables and unnecessary services offered in the store. There is a 99% chance you are getting screwed.

Don't fall for liquidation sales. You may feel that the demise of Circuit City presents an ideal opportunity to score some new gear for the game. The reality is, if you're not constantly cross-checking those supposedly slashed prices, quite the opposite may be true.

It Isn't All About the TV
The Super Bowl isn't just about a big HDTV. It's about people getting together, getting drunk and yelling at that HDTV. It's also a good time to pick up some of the extras you are going to need like cool remotes, cooking equipment, and other football-related gear. Here are some of the best deals going:

Remotes:
• Logitech Harmony 550 Universal Remote Control for $59.97 plus free shipping (normally $99.97)
• Logitech Harmony 610 Universal Remote Control for $49.99 (normally $79.99)

Other Home Entertainment Gadgets:
• Sling Media Slingbox Pro-HD for $259.99 (normally $299.99)
• Cambridge Soundworks Surround Speakers for $99.99 (normally $299.99)
• Polk Audio Two-way Floorstanding Loudspeaker for $99.99 plus free shipping (normally $199.99)
• Pioneer HTP-2920 5.1 Surround-Sound System for $199.99 plus free shipping (normally $329.99)

Gaming:
• Madden 2009 on PS3 for $36.99 plus free shipping (normally $56.99 / Great for exacting revenge on a blown season. Damn you Giants!)

DVDs:
• NFL History of the Pittsburgh Steelers on DVD for $13.99 (normally $26.98)
• Pittsburgh Steelers: Super Bowl Champions on DVD for $8.86 (normally $19.98)
• Any Given Sunday on DVD for $4.86 (normally $14.96, and Wilson's favorite Oliver Stone film)
• Friday Night Lights for $3.15 (normally $12.98)
• Remember the Titans for $5.73 (normally $14.99)
• The Comebacks on DVD for $4.99 (normally $14.98)
• Jerry McGuire on DVD for $8.99 plus free shipping (normally $19.95)
• Little Giants on DVD for $6.99 (normally $14.97)
• The Waterboy on DVD for $8.26 plus free shipping (normally $19.99)
• We Are Marshall for $4.99 (normally $14.98)

Grills:
• Tool Box Jumbo Grill with Stand for $24.97 (normally $99.99)
• Coleman Outdoor Grill and Stove for $32.36 (normally $82.99, in Target stores only)
• Hamilton Beach HealthSmart Grill for $18.99 (normally $36.11)
• George Foreman Champ Grill for $19.99 (normally $39.99)

Beer and Popcorn:
• A handful of deals and rebates on beer (This is what it is all about)
• Nostalgia Movietime Popcorn Maker for $22.54 (normally $36.23)
• Presto PopLite Hot Air Popcorn Popper for $14.99 (normally $29.99)
• Orville Redenbacher's Original Popping Corn Kernels for $6.95 (normally $26.95)

For the Ladies:
• Football for Dummies for $7.99 (normally $19.99)
• Arizona Cardinals earrings for $5.99 (normally $21.95)
• Arizona Cardinals apron for $12.95 (normally $14.95)
• Pittsburg Steelers earrings for $3.99 (normally $13.95)
• Pittsburg Steelers apron for $12.95 (normally $14.95)
• 5 lbs. of Holiday Chocolate for $1.49 (normally $24.99 - use coupon code "AVA910")

Hobomodo:
• Mini Football for $0 (use fake e-mail address, could possibly be spam)
• 1,200 Digital Photo Prints for $0 (use coupon code "FREE800")
• Diet Dr. Pepper for $0
• Orville Redenbacher Natural Gourmet Popcorn for $0
• Bruce Springsteen Songs for Guitar Hero World Tour for $0 (valid until 2/04)
•3D glasses for Super Bowl commercials for $0 You may want to hold on to these.

Now get out there and enjoy the game. And I would like to take this opportunity to say that the last six weeks or so of the Giant's season made me want to puke. If I wanted to see a team look like crap, I would go back to a standard-def TV.

Prof. Dealzmodo is a regular section dedicated to helping budget-minded consumers learn how to shop smarter and get the best deals on their favorite gadgets. If you have any topics you would like to see covered, send your idea to tips@gizmodo.com, with "Professor Dealzmodo" in the subject line.

Back in the days before becoming a gadget-deal guru, I was known as Prof. Buffmodo, certified personal trainer—so I know what it takes to get in shape from a physical and a fiscal standpoint. The bottom line is this: Most fitness gadgets are gimmicky junk and a lot of gyms will rip you off in a heartbeat. With the economy in the shape it is, fitness will probably be one of the household expenses put on the chopping block, but this might not be a bad thing. The truth is that beginners can get in shape on a budget by keeping things simple.

What Not To Buy:
Common sense should tell us that products like the Springflex and the Gamercize PC Power Stepper are gimmicks catering to people who are unwilling or unable to devote time to exercising. Besides, neither offer anything close to a full-body workout. These half-assed approaches cost $90 and $200 respectively, and they will end up sitting in your garage after a month.

Along those lines, we have products like the Steelcase Walkstation. Losing weight and increasing heart and lung health is heavily dependent on the heart rate you achieve while doing cardiovascular exercise (see Karvonen formula). But the Walkstation moves no faster than 2 mph. Unless you are morbidly obese or like 90 years old, a walking pace isn't going to achieve these goals. It may be be better than sitting in a chair, but I can think of better ways to spend five grand.

What About Bowflex, Weight Benches, Treadmills and Ellipticals?
Generally, I don't have much of a problem with the performance of these devices, but they are nothing if not expensive. These are often the go-to machines for people who don't want to go to a traditional gym. The problem here is with motivation. The vast majority of people quit working out altogether within a few months, so if you have a history of not finishing what you started, going all in financially like this is most likely a bad move.

What About Wii Fit?
I have never tried Wii Fit, so I can't make any claims as far as its effectiveness is concerned. Our own Brian Lam argued after six months with it that it has more of a mental impact than a physical one. To me it reeks of something you would have fun with for a few minutes, then forget about completely. Not only does it not offer a lot of options in terms of strength training, but it relies heavily on the fairly useless body mass index. At 6' 3 and 205 pounds, my BMI is 25.6—a figure that would be considered "overweight." However, I only carry about 7% body fat. Body composition is what is truly important. All-in-all, it doesn't seem to be worth the $90-$130 to me.

What You Should Buy:
An effective home gym for beginners that gets results can consist of the following inexpensive devices:
• A set of basic dumbbells at 5, 10, 15 and 20 pounds for high-rep exercises: Keep in mind that you don't need expensive gym weights. Ten pounds is ten pounds—as long as it is comfortable and balanced. Prices vary and dumbbell sets can be expensive, but if you shop around you can get deals for under $30. (A Hobomodo strategy would be to use gallon water jugs for your lower weight exercises.) I do not recommend dumbbells with interchangeable weights as these are often bulky and dangerous to operate. Exercise bands of various resistances offer an even cheaper alternative at prices under $20.
• A Swiss balance ball: Sizes generally range at 55cm, 65cm and 75cm for people under 5'5, 6'0 and above 6'0 respectively and can be found for under $20.
• A total body bar ($30-$40): You could go up a notch and pick up something like the Perfect Pullup which offers ab straps and adjustable/rotating grips to add another dimension to your workout. ($60)
• A 6- to 10-lb medicine ball: Prices vary, but these can be found for between $10 and $20.

Basically, we are talking $200 for the basic equipment that offers a full-body resistance workout and the opportunity to perform a wide range of exercises at low risk of injury. Cardio can be handled with a jog around the park, a swim, a bike ride, a game of basketball or tennis, a jump rope, etc.—activities that can be done inexpensively or at no cost. Throw in a free yoga program on FitTV or Oxygen and you have the stretching and flexibility portion of your fitness routine down as well.

A Word On Gym Memberships:
Truth be told, I have a very expensive gym membership. But then again, I have been doing this in a very hardcore fashion, week in week out for the last 8 years. The point I am trying to make is this: If you are a beginner or someone who can't devote a lot of time or money to working out, it's best to start small and work your way up. This is true for both the exercises that you perform and the equipment that you spend your money on. If you stick with it...awesome. Maybe then you can mix it up with a gym membership or some more expensive home gear (although that, in truth, may never be necessary). If you quit, at least your only out $200 and not $2000.

If you do decide to join a gym, keep these tips in mind:
• Treat it like a car purchase. Sales reps work on commission, and they are not going to give you their lowest price unless you fight for it. January is usually the best time to find a deal.
• Always read the contracts. This is true with everything, but gyms can be really shady. They are not above pulling one over on you.
• Try and pay your dues in full. Some of the shadier gyms kick in auto-renew policies for people that go month-to-month. That means they will continue to draw money from your account even after the contract has expired (hence the need to read that contract).

Now go, exercise, be healthy—but try to keep some extra weight in the wallet region.

Prof. Dealzmodo is a regular section dedicated to helping budget-minded consumers learn how to shop smarter and get the best deals on their favorite gadgets. If you have any topics you would like to see covered, send your idea to tips@gizmodo.com, with "Professor Dealzmodo" in the subject line.

Game Consoles

Xbox 360: Let's say you scored an Xbox 360 Pro bundle this holiday for $240. Not bad—that's a 20% savings. But you still might need/want an extra wireless controller, an HDMI cable, a wireless adapter and two play-and-charge battery kits. All of a sudden, the price jumps up to $440—nearly double the initial cost.

While you may be stuck with Microsoft wireless controllers, there are workarounds for the other components that can help bring costs down. Going with trusted 3rd party manufacturers like Nyko on peripherals is one way to do this. Their version of the play-and-charge battery kit for your controllers will save you $10 right off the bat. As for the wireless adapter, you can set up a DIY version fairly easily using a cheap router, a few feet of Cat 5 cable and open source DD-WRT firmware—saving you as much as $70. You can even use your laptop as the wireless adapter and save the entire $100.

By using your own HDMI, you can save as much as $45. And if you want to send digital audio separately, there's a simple hack to your included AV cable. All in all, the total cost of of your Xbox 360 hardware can be reduced from $440 to as little as $325.

Nintendo Wii: As far as essential add ons are concerned, Nintendo and Sony are not nearly as extreme as Microsoft. However, there are still some deals to be found on accessories if you know where to look. For example, Nyko will be offering wired versions of their Wing (classic controller) and Kama (nunchuk) for $15 apiece starting in January. A $5 savings over the official version isn't much, but it starts to add up if you are buying several controllers for party games.

Another area that you can save with the Wii involves storage. Buying the officially licensed 2GB SD card will set you back around $25—but other than the Nintendo seal there is no difference between that and a standard $10 card.

Playstation 3: Even if you managed to score a deal on the PS3 this holiday, you are still going to shell out additional cash for an HDMI cable. By now, the world has realized that a cheap HDMI cable works just as well (in most cases) as an expensive version. Therefore, it doesn't make much sense to shell out $50-$60 for an official PS3 HDMI cable when you can get a version that is perfectly fine for as little as $5 shipped.

Computers

Hardware: Like game consoles, picking up a new computer isn't always as straightforward as paying the sticker price. MacBooks are a good example of this. If you just picked up your first MacBook, chances are you are going to need two things right away: an upgrade to Wireless-N and an external hard drive that takes advantage of Leopard's Time Machine functionality. One option would be to drop $300 on a 500GB version—or $500 on a 1TB version—of Apple's Time Capsule wireless hard drive/base station. Granted, this is an ideal solution to both problems, but MacBooks tend to put a hurtin' on finances so there may not be much money left over to go this route.

On the lower end you could go with Apple's AirPort Express and your own external hard drive. The AirPort is actually a decent value at $99—but you can still save a little extra cash by making a sacrifice or two and going outside of Apple. For example, you can get a decent 802.11n router for as little as $70. You can also score a 500GB hard drive that can do the job via USB for $90 and under. The throughput on the router may not be as high and you may have to deal with USB cables on the hard drive, but you are still getting fully functioning hardware at a sizable discount.

Software: It's almost never a good idea to purchase additional software from the manufacturer of your computer as an add on. If, for some reason, you decided to get the Microsoft Office Home and Student 2008 suite from Apple they would charge you $135 extra when it can be easily had elsewhere for around $110. Dell goes even further by charging $149 for Office Home and Student 2007 when a version licensed for 3 PCs can be had for $75.

Home Theaters

Cables: Whenever you purchase home theater equipment there are a seemingly endless variety of hidden costs that can end up nickle-and-diming you to death. Again, cabling is a big part of this equation. As I mentioned earlier, in most cases shelling out big bucks for fancy HDMI cable isn't much different that flushing your cash down the toilet. However, at cable distances greater than 6 feet or so this may not always be the case. As we learned in our Truth About Monster Series, as a general rule, it is better to purchase your cables from a discount retailer like Monoprice and give them a shot before spending wads of money on products like Monster with enormous markups.

Installation: Wall mounting televisions and installing surround sound speakers can be expensive and/or labor intensive. Of course, there are alternatives that can help you avoid these pitfalls. Even if you have your heart set on a wall mount, there are stands out there like the Synchro Furniture Mate that are designed to achieve the wall-mounted look without the hassle of tearing up your walls. As noted in our post on tips for buying an HDTV, if you decide to do it yourself to save a little extra cash, make sure you plan things out in advance. I would also suggest pricing your mount across the internet before purchasing at retail because the markups are likely to be astronomical. Case in point: Best Buy is offering a Sanus tilting wall mount for $145 when a quick visit to Pricegrabber revealed that the same mount is selling on Amazon for $78.

As for setting up surround speakers, it definitely pays to do it yourself. The old-fashioned method can be problematic, but there are solutions as simple as picking up some 4-strand flat speaker cable and running it along your baseboard. It costs under $60 from start to finish, it's simple and it looks great. Again, plan ahead and price your mounts online before heading off to your local electronics store.

These are but a few examples of how add ons and extras can kill a budget, but the point is clear—it pays to look at the big picture. Before you jump at a sale price, do a little research and think about the total cost of ownership. If you look hard enough, you can find deals that will help you save in the long term.

Prof. Dealzmodo is a regular section dedicated to helping budget-minded consumers learn how to shop smarter and get the best deals on their favorite gadgets. If you have any topics you would like to see covered, send your idea to tips@gizmodo.com, with "Professor Dealzmodo" in the subject line.

Hard economic times require that we think more closely about how our money is spent. When it comes to computers, Prof. Dealzmodo has a philosophy: build it and values will come.

In other words, it makes more financial sense to buy the most basic model at a bargain-basement price and turn it into the top-notch computer of your dreams. It can save you hundreds and maybe even thousands of dollars overall.

Laptops: I visited Dell.com and selected a mid-range laptop—in this case, the Studio 17. A model with 2GB of RAM and a 320GB hard drive will run you $799— but what happens when you want to beef it up with some extra RAM and an even bigger hard drive? Just like that, the price shoots up to $1049 for the following configuration (if you stick with Dell hardware upgrades):

Dell Studio 17

• 2.0GHz Intel Pentium Dual Core T3200
• 4GB DDR2 RAM
• 640GB (2x320) SATA Hard Drive (5400 RPM)
• Integrated graphics

However, a quick trip to Newegg to pick up RAM and an additional 320GB drive brings the total down to $918 for the same computer. Basically, I just shaved $131 off the price by doing these simple upgrades myself.

Note: On any system, to make use of all 4GB of RAM, you need 64-bit Windows. You should get it at no extra charge when configuring a system, so be sure to ask up front. Buying an extra copy separately for will cost you a punitive $100.

Before you settle on a laptop, make sure that you check to see what can be upgraded and whether or not you can find easily exchangeable parts at a discount. And keep in mind that savings could be increased even further if you start with a refurbished model or a model that is not loaded with an OS.

Desktops: We all know that desktops, much less custom-built desktops, are not highly sought after these days. Still, the tremendous values here are hard to ignore. PC Gamers are well acquainted with the practice, but I see no reason (outside of the need for portability) why budget shoppers can't take advantage of the savings as well. Once again, I chose a mid-range product from Dell as the control—the Studio desktop.

Example #1 (A Studio configuration straight from the Dell website):

•2.66GHz Intel Core 2 Duo E7300
• 24" Widescreen HD LCD
• 4GB Dual Channel DDR2 SDRAM
• 1TB Serial ATA Hard Drive (7200RPM)
• ATI Radeon HD 3650 256MB GPU
• 16X DVD+/-RW Drive
• Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio
• Vista Home Premium

Total Cost: $1464

Example #2 (A Studio configuration with custom-installed parts):

Base model
• 2.66GHz Intel Core 2 Duo E7300
• No monitor
• 2GB Dual Channel DDR2 SDRAM
• 500GB Serial ATA Hard Drive (7200RPM)
• Integrated graphics
• 16X DVD+/-RW Drive
• Integrated Audio
• Windows Vista Premium

Add custom parts:
• 4GB DDR2 SDRAM for $40
• 24" Asus Widescreen HD LCD for $300
• 1TB Seagate Serial ATA Hard Drive (7200RPM) for $110
• Radeon HD 3650 256MB GPU for $55
• Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio for $50

Total Cost of Base Model: $749
Upgrades: $555
Total Cost Overall: $1304

As with the laptop, by simply upgrading components myself I managed to save cash—in this case, $160—and I have an extra 500GB drive to boot.

Example #3 (Total custom build):

• Cooler Master Case with 460W Power Supply for $90
• 24" Asus Widescreen HD LCD for $300
• 1TB Seagate Serial ATA Hard Drive for $110
• Lite-On 20x DVD+/-RW Drive for $21
• Radeon HD 3650 256MB GPU for $55
• Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio for $50
• Basic keyboard for $5
• Basic mouse for $5
• 4GB DDR2 SDRAM for $42
• Motherboard for $45
• 2.66GHz Intel Core 2 Duo E7300 for $120
• Windows Vista Home Premium 64-bit for $100

Total Cost of Build: $943

By building from scratch, I was able put together the same computer (in terms of performance) as the Dell Studio in the first example for $521 less—and the majority of the components are better. I also saved an extra $361 over the upgrade to the base Studio model in example #2.

It is also important to note that making upgrades on laptops and factory desktops can void your warranty. This may be something you want to check on before proceeding. You may also want to investigate local businesses that specialize in custom builds if you lack the skills necessary to make the upgrades yourself. Even though these services are an added expense, you are still likely to come out on top.

Conclusion: The bottom line is that saving money on a computer is more than just finding the best deal online. In this case, it's kind of like buying a fixer-upper. When you walk into the property the realtor tries to help you focus on what the home could be as opposed to what it currently is. Again, before you buy, make sure to check and see if doing some of the upgrades yourself can help you save some extra money. In order to maintain continuity and keep things simple, I stuck with Dell and Newegg here—but, obviously, branching out could lead to greater savings. You could also save a lot more if you are willing to make a sacrifice or two here and there—like going with AMD over Intel (although I doubt many Intel fans would be willing to make that jump no matter what the cost).

Prof. Dealzmodo is a regular section dedicated to helping budget-minded consumers learn how to shop smarter and get the best deals on their favorite gadgets. If you have any topics you would like to see covered, send your idea to tips@gizmodo.com, with "Professor Dealzmodo" in the subject line.

Black Friday is always big, but this year promises to be bigger and messier than ever because of the economic crisis. October saw a record decline in sales for retailers. Several big companies barely survived, while others went under altogether. Couple that with the fact that more consumers are both conscious of their own budgets and aware that it's a buyer's market, and you have yourself a retail storm brewin'—my trick knee of values is telling me this just might be a perfect storm. In a situation like this, the number one tip is to be prepared. If you haven't done your homework already, just be thankful you have someone like Prof. Dealzmodo here who's willing to do it for you.

Know your Enemy:
Our own survey of gadget shoppers revealed that 17% would hit brick-and-mortar stores on Black Friday, 11% will hit both brick-and-mortar and online stores, 17% will focus online only, 28% will avoid shopping altogether and 17% are undecided. Here's how the research firms break it down:

Brick and Mortar: Before we get started, it is important to know what you are up against. According to Consumer Reports, the number of people heading out to the stores on Black Friday will be higher this year—up to 26% vs. 21% in 2007. Of that brave group, electronics will be the main draw with 85% of shoppers looking to pick up a gadget or two. That represents a 10% increase over last year. As the chart above indicates, game consoles are the biggest draw at 46%, followed by MP3 players/iPod at 44%, and flat-panel TVs at 32%.

Online: Research conducted by PriceGrabber.com (download PDF) reveals that 76.3% of consumers will start their holiday shopping either before Thanksgiving (46%) or between Thanksgiving and December 15th (36.3%). As many as 95% of shoppers will look online at one point or another to purchase gifts. Items with free shipping are going to be big—44% of respondents claim that they search for free-shipping items only. Furthermore, because of the focus on cutting spending, 2 in 3 online consumers (66.3%) plan to give mostly "practical" gifts.

That's a lot of numbers, but the point to take away is that competition is going to be fierce, especially for sale-priced items that are in smaller supplies than in years past.

Lay Some Groundwork:
First and foremost, if money is tight, set a firm budget and stick to it. You may be surprised at how well you do.

To get a sense of pricing, try using a price comparison website like PriceGrabber.com, Shopping.com Shopzilla or Yahoo Shopping. If you are wondering which is best, SmartMoney recently did a quick and dirty guide to the top comparison sites.

If you're definitely buying online, you may also want to check out online coupon sites like RetailMeNot.com, MyCoupons.com and DealCatcher.com to try and score some hidden deals.

If it's free shipping you're after, specialized sites like Freeshipping.org and PriceGrabber.com's Free Shipping! can help.

Choose the Point of Attack:
The next step is to decide where to shop and what to shop for. The following links will help you investigate the Black Friday deals going on at your favorite gadget-centric stores.

Circuit City:
• HP Pavilion 15.4" Laptop (Intel DualCore T3200, 2GB, 160GB HD, Vista Home) for $400
• Samsung 8-Megapixel Digital Camera for $80
• Samsung 42" 720p Plasma HDTV for $700
• Samsung 46" 1080p LCD HDTV for $1100
• Toshiba 32" 720p LCD HDTV for $450

Best Buy:
• Samsung 40" Class 1080P LCD HDTV for $800
• Samsung 46" Class 1080P LCD HDTV for $1100
• Toshiba AMD Turion 64 X2 Dual-Core Laptop w/3GB RAM, 160GB Hard Drive for $380
• Samsung BD-P1500 Blu-ray player for $200

RadioShack:
• SanDisk 8GB Sansa Fuze for $70
• Memorex 7-in-1 HD DV 5MP Camcorder for $80
• TomTom One 125 GPS for $100

Walmart:
• 50" Samsung plasma HDTV for $800
• Xbox 360 Arcade with Guitar Hero III and wireless guitar for $200
• Magnavox Blu-ray player for $130
• HP Pavilion desktop for $400

Target:
• Westinghouse 26" HDTV for $300
• Garmin nuvi 200W GPS for $120
• Super Mario Bros. DS package for $150
• Guitar Hero World Tour (Guitar Kit) for Wii for $60

Gamestop:
• Rock Band Track Pack Vol. 2 for $1 (after purchase of Rock Band game or bundle over $50)
• Madden PSP Entertainment Pack or Ratchet and Clank Pack for $200
• Several Xbox 360 bundles (Arcade, Pro and Elite)
• World of Warcraft Battle Chest for $20

Sears:
• Sharp 46" 1080p set for $900
• TomTom One 125 GPS for $100
• Samsung Blu-ray player for $200

Dell:
• Xbox 360 Arcade With 7 Games Including Rock Band 2 for $200
• Inspiron Mini 9 Laptop for $300
• Dell Inspiron 13 Laptop for $700
• Studio 15 for $700
• Studio 17 for $800
• XPS M1330 for $1,030
• XPS M1530 also for $1,030,
• Sharp 42" 1080p LCD HDTV for $780

OfficeMax:
• SanDisk Cruzer Micro 16GB Jump Drive for $40
• Epson PowerLite S5 3LCD SVGA Projector for $400
• HP Photosmart C4480 3-In-1 Printer for $50
• Simpletech 640 GB Mini Hard Drive for $90

Office Depot:
• Logitech Cordless Optical Mouse for $5
• HP 15.4" 3 GB Memory 160 GB Hard Drive Notebook Model G50-112NR for $350
• Samsung 23" LCD HDTV Model 2333HD for $280

Staples:
• Brother MFC3360C All-In-One Printer for $30
• Netgear Wireless-N Router for $50
• Microsoft Office Home & Student 2007 for $60
• Kodak EasyShare C913 9MP Digital Camera w/ 1GB Card for$80 (Bonus: free Canon photo printer with purchase of any advertised camera)
• HP Pavilion 15.4" Dual-Core Laptop w/ 2GB, 120GB for $400 (Free HP printer included)

Additional deals can be found by following Gizmodo's Black Friday coverage. Naturally, complete Black Friday ads can also be found in their entirety at sites like BlackFriday.info, bfads.net, and Black-Friday.net. And remember—don't be afraid to buy refurbished. Outlet stores offer deals year round.

If you are not sure what to buy in the first place, Electronic House has put together a list of the 15 best deals that this year's Black Friday has to offer.

Sneaky Tricks and Tips:
We all know that on Black Friday it's important to shop early, shop in teams, pack a lunch, etc.—but if you are looking for a few sneaky tips that fall outside the realm of common sense, here are a few gems:

• Mike Elgan of Datamation reminds us that following BlackFriday and searching for 'Black Friday' on Twitter is a great way to get real-time information on the latest deals, inventory numbers, etc. Turning on SMS alerts can also be helpful on the big day.

• 2008BlackFridayAds says to make sure to keep an eye on eBay. If you are fortunate enough to score one of the rare deals, there is always the possibility you can quickly turn it for a profit to buy even more presents. And, as always, it is a good idea to check the site to make sure you can't find better prices at auction.

• Those same guys also suggest two interesting ways to beat the lines. Option #1: If your local electronics store sells appliances, consider hiding your gadget purchases inside to pick up at a later date. This could be used to secure your choices ahead of time or keep your purchases safe until you can come back to the store when the line is shorter. It may or may not work, but refrigerators are not exactly wildly popular holiday items—I doubt anyone would check inside. Option #2: Hire a broke college student to stand in line or even pull an all-nighter for you. If you negotiate for the right price, you may still save money without all the hassle. Naturally, this could backfire on you in a big way if the person you hire isn't trustworthy.

• If stashing your gadgets in an appliance or hidden corner of a store isn't a possibility, a section devoted to Black Friday strategies on Bargainshare.com suggests that you investigate the old return-and-re-buy maneuver. That involves buying your chosen gadget ahead of time at full price then returning it on Black Friday to instantly rebuy at the discounted price. Obviously, this tactic would help you avoid sellouts—but many stores are cracking down on this which is one reason why it is so important to research the store return policies ahead of time.

•Smartphones are where it's at. Remember that all the websites and information above can be accessed on the spot via a web-enabled smartphone. If you don't own one already, maybe it's time you got on board. At the very least, try and find a shopping buddy that has access to one on Black Friday.

Know Your Policies:
As mentioned, it is important that you familiarize yourself with the return polices of the stores you visit on Black Friday—whether they are online or just down the street. It is also important that you determine whether or not the store has a price-match policy in place. Naturally, this information along with knowing which stores in your area are offering the hot gadgets greatly increases your chances of nabbing the best deal. However, many stores suspend their price-match policy on Black Friday: Best Buy and Circuit City both have price matching policies, but they do not apply on Black Friday. On the other hand, Walmart's Ad Match program will be active on the 28th provided that you have an ad for an identical product from a local store with a price that is currently in effect.

Things to Watch Out For:
Black Friday didn't get it's name for being a walk in the park. Deception, delusion and crazy crowds are all part of the deal, in addition to the actual deals.

• As you probably already know, Black Friday is primetime for the dreaded bait-and-switch. If you are re-directed by salespeople to substitute products or advertised prices somehow change at the register because of a "necessary" add-on, you are probably being scammed. In this situation, your best defense is a good offense. Speak up and demand to talk with a supervisor. The last thing these people need on a nerve-wracking Black Friday is someone being difficult. Chances are they will give in to your request to make the situation go away. As a retail sales veteran I can recall countless instances where my judgment was overruled by a supervisor looking to avoid a fight.

• Mail-in rebates can save you money, but you have to take an honest look at the situation and ask yourself, "Will I really fill this rebate out and send it off in the time alotted?" Several studies conducted over the years have concluded that a surprising number of individuals never claim their rebates. If you decide to purchase an item with a rebate offer it is imperative that you fill out the form immediately and send it off. Also, keep in mind that many companies use these rebates as a way of making it more difficult to return items. It is also a great way for the company to collect consumer information. Besides, as the recent bankruptcy of RebateStatus.com proves, in this economy, there is no guarantee you will get the rebate even if you fill out all of the necessary paperwork.

•Don't expect things to go smoothly—bad things can and will happen. Whenever you have a large group of excited people, with a generous number of aggressive a-holes mixed in, tensions are bound to boil over. Because of this, Consumerist publised a list of 28 bad things that will happen on Black Friday which covers at least a portion of the potential pitfalls. Read it.

Don't Worry If You Miss the Deal:
Finally, if you miss out on the deal that you really wanted, don't sweat it. Winning individual battles on Black Friday is not as important as winning the war. Just make sure you stick to your budget and hopefully you will have better luck with the next item on the list. It is also important to note that the prices on popular items like HDTVs and Blu-ray players are rapidly coming down anyway, so there's a good chance you'll be able to realize much of the savings throughout the holiday shopping season. If you are in the market for an elusive Nintendo Wii, GameStop claims that they will have enough to last through the first week of December. If that's true, it's in your best interests to scoop one up right away. After all, the Wii is one thing you are not likely to score a Black Friday discount on in the first place.

Good hunting!

[All our Black Friday Advice, here]
Prof. Dealzmodo is a new regular section dedicated to helping budget-minded consumers learn how to shop smarter and get the best deals on their favorite gadgets. If you have any topics you would like to see covered, send your idea to tips@gizmodo.com, with "Professor Dealzmodo" in the subject line.

More Advice for the Black Friday Fray:
• The aforementioned Ultimate Survival Guide.
• 5 Gadgets You Can't Skimp On (And How to Save Money Buying Them)
• Best of Black Friday Deals Complete Roundup">All the best deals in one place
• Plus these late breaking ones from Cupertino: Apple Black Friday Deals Include Some Decent Third-Party Discounts
• Warnings: 7 Crappy Black Friday "Deals" That Aren't Really
• How To Choose an HDTV on Black Friday (or Any Day)
• How to set up that new HDTV you just got.

Photochop Contest:
• Brutally Honest Black Friday Ads Showcase Retailers on the Brink

Why You Might Want to Avoid Shopping on Black Friday, altogether:
• 10 Reasons We're Doomed: Black Friday Edition
• WalMart Worker Trampled to Death by Deal-Crazed Black Friday Shoppers

[Complete Black Friday Gadget Coverage at Giz]

Yes, there is a stigma associated with buying refurbished laptops. I understand it to a degree—I mean, there is nothing like liberating a fresh, shiny gadget from its plastic packaging prison. What I don't understand is how this stigma exists in a society where buying a used car is so widely accepted. As many others have pointed out, the process of buying a refurb and a used car are actually very similar—except the financial risk we take on with the latter is generally much, much higher. So why are we so hung up on this? We shouldn't be—and here is why.

The Facts:

Fact #1: The economy is busted right now. One of the sticking points people have with refurbished laptops is that they may not be getting top-of-the-line performance and features. While this is usually true, it is important to seriously analyze your computing needs and determine what you really need vs. what you really want. For example, in a recent Question of the Day, I asked Giz readers whether they really need a $1000 laptop. Out of nearly 9000 votes, 42% responded "No", 21% responded "Yes, but only because I like to have the best of everything", and 19% responded "Yes, but only because I am unwilling to sacrifice on the OS." Basically, this implies that many of us are buying more laptop than we really need.

Fact #2: The term "used" takes on a slightly different meaning when you are talking about refurbished laptops. Analysis of outlet stores and other refurb dealers reveals that "refurbished" laptops that have been used are most likely returns that have been in circulation 30 days or less. When the laptops are returned, they undergo a thorough inspection and should be good as new. They could also be demos or products with slight defects that are repaired during the inspection. Refurb outlets also sometimes offer discounts on overstocked items. In this case, the laptops have never been used at all.

Fact #3: Most reputable retailers will offer a return policy and some sort of 1-year warranty for their refurbished laptop—which should help bring you peace of mind. For the extremely cautious, there is usually a warranty extension option that, if purchased, will still put your total price tag well under what it would cost to buy new. (And let's not forget that people buying new laptops are also encouraged to opt for the pricey extended warranty, so the refurb, with protection, remains a much better deal.)

Where to Look:

First and foremost, you need to know where to look. Deals on eBay, Craigslist or some obscure retailer may seem hot, but you and I both know that laptops purchased from these outlets are most likely "used" in the strictest sense of the word. Stick with the laptop manufacturer themselves or authorized refurbishers. Big-box stores offer the advantage of a hands-on inspection—but make sure to search around first to ensure that you are getting a good price. And, as always, make sure it is backed by a decent warranty and return policy.

A Few of Your Best Options:

Apple: In the QOTD mentioned earlier 19% were unwilling to buy a sub-$1000 laptop because of the OS. Let's face it—we are talking about OS X here. Okay, scoring a relatively new MacBook for under $1000 is a tall order, but right now there are refurbished last-gen 2.0GHz, 2.1GHz, 2.2 GHz and 2.4GHz MacBooks selling for $799, $849, $999, and $1049 respectively. Performance-wise, these laptops are comparable to their new counterparts, so why pay $1299 when you can pay $799 or $849? Is it really worth all that extra cash for the bump up in RAM and graphics? For most non-gaming non-video-editing users, the need for unibody construction and a glass multi-touch trackpad are luxuries, no matter how nice. Keep in mind that all Apple reburbs include a 1-year warranty that protects against defects in materials and workmanship under normal use.

Dell: One of the good things about Dell is that they allow the customer to select between different kinds of refurbished inventory:

•Certified Refurbished: Laptops that have been returned to Dell, put through the production process, and then again retested to ensure they meet all original factory specifications (may have cosmetic damages).

•Previously Ordered New: Laptops that were shipped out to a customer who opened the box, but decided to return the system without ever turning it on. All of these computers have undergone testing and repackaging by the Dell Outlet. Previously Ordered New systems do not have any cosmetic damages.

•Scratch and Dent: Laptops with considerable cosmetic blemishes that do not affect performance. Scratch and Dent computers will not have scratches or pits on the screen, missing or illegible letters on the keyboard, or damage to the touchpad or palmrest. These PCs have also undergone a rebuilding and testing process.

Obviously, this system allows you to choose the level of prior usage that you are willing to live with, which also gives you greater budgetary flexibility. For example: A base model Dell XPS M150 will run you about $949. You can get a "Certified Refurb" with a faster processor and more RAM for as little as $809. I also saw a "Scratch and Dent" version with a faster processor and more RAM for $759. All Dell refurbs come with a 1-3 year limited hardware warranty. Just make sure you check through all of the inventory for your selection to find the best deal.

Lenovo: Like Dell, Lenovo offers three choices with regard to outlet laptops:

•New: A cancelled order that never shipped.

•Redistributed: The laptop was shipped and returned unopened. It was never used by the customer. All products are tested and inspected.

•Refurbished: The laptop was returned with the factory seal broken. It may or may not have been used by the customer. All products are tested and inspected.

The Lenovo Outlet offers plenty of big sales and deep discounts on their ThinkPad laptops, so at any one time you should be able to find something that suits your needs at an affordable price. For example: a base model untouched X61s ultraportable will run you about $1029 (on sale from $1540). I found a "New" X61s with twice the battery capacity, more processing speed and memory for about $936. I also found a "Refurbished" version with similar specs for only $832. All outlet models come with a limited warranty.

So, if you are working on a budget I hope this has convinced you that A) you should focus on a laptop that is suited to your needs and B) if you know where to look and what to look for, buying a refurbished laptop is a smart option.

Finally, don't let horror stories deter you from investigating refurbs. Problems happen, and people can be vocal about those problems, but if you are dealing with reputable retailers, the risk is slim. If you are still worried consider this: In another recent Question of the Day, I asked readers point-blank whether or not they would purchase (or have purchased) a refurbished laptop. The results revealed that 32% of the respondents actually bought a refurb, and less than 7% had had a bad experience. Those are some good, if non-scientific, odds.

Prof. Dealzmodo is a new regular section dedicated to helping budget-minded consumers learn how to shop smarter and get the best deals on their favorite gadgets. If you have any topics you would like to see covered, send your idea to tips@gizmodo.com, with "Professor Dealzmodo" in the subject line.